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Messages - Cary Austin

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 69
1
Frequently Asked Questions / Re: CSV-1 as a check valve
« on: Today at 10:07:58 PM »
No.  You still need a regular check valve.

2
Frequently Asked Questions / Re: Is a CSV right for me?
« on: May 17, 2019, 10:38:10 AM »
You don't need quick connects.  If the CSV1A gets plugged up with iron, you just unscrew the top cap and pull out the gut pack.  Clean the gut pack and drop it back in.  Some people even keep an extra gut pack (A-cart) handy.  That way they can let one soak in CLR or chlorine while they drop in the extra gut pack and are back in water. 

3
Frequently Asked Questions / Re: Another VFD is best argument
« on: May 17, 2019, 10:34:24 AM »
Not really.  Cavitation is the act of the air bubbles imploding.  They have usually imploded before they even get out of the pump, so you don't see air in the lines. 

4
Frequently Asked Questions / Re: Is a CSV right for me?
« on: May 16, 2019, 12:51:36 PM »
You have worn out two bladder tanks in 15 years, your pump is already cycling too much.  With every pump cycle the tank bladder goes up and down. It is like bending a wire until it breaks.  Your pump will cycle the same number of times with a CSV and small tank as it does with a big pressure tank.  It just doesn't cycle at all for long term uses, which more than makes up for cycles for short term uses.  You can always use a CSV with a large tank if you want.  That way you get the best of both worlds.  But with the large tank you will lose the benefit of constant pressure during small uses.  Once you get use the the strong constant pressure, you won't like waiting four minutes in a shower with dismal pressure before the CSV can go to work.  Save the money and don't buy a big tank.  Just upgrading to the 10 gallon tank with the PK1A kit will cut the cycles tremendously and still give you constant pressure.

All those kits do the same thing.  It is just a matter of where to put the CSV.  If there are no outlets between the well and tank the PK1A is what you need.  If you have outlets between the well and tank, the or the CSV1A can go at the well, while the rest of the PK1AM goes in the house.  The PK125 is really make to put the CSV125 in the well and the manifold at the house.  LT just means less tank if you want to purchase one of your own of any size.

5
A GT15 should build 51 PSI , less 1 PSI for every 2.31 feet to water down the well.  It must shut off higher than 30 for the CSV to work.  Loosen all the way off on the little screw in the pressure switch.  Adjust the big screw until it shuts off at 35 or higher, and the CSV should work.  If it will not build at least 40 something is wrong with the pump.

6
That looks like an older model 1" CSV?  If that is correct it should work down to 1 GPM.  Those are set pressure valves (no adjustment).  So you have to make the pressure switch turn the pump off higher than the CSV pressure.  What pressure is the CSV and what is the pressure switch on/off setting?

7
You are correct.  Anytime there is a continuous or long demand for less than 1 GPM, a larger tank will help.  A 60 gallon tank only holds about 15 gallons of water.  But that would only cause about 4 cycles per hour when demanding less than 1 GPM.  Then the CSV will take over and eliminate cycling when you are using more than 1 GPM.

8
Water proof electric tape or use a heat shrink kit.

9
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: New Pump System
« on: April 17, 2019, 06:45:33 AM »
Any 10 GPM, 3/4HP submersible will do as much as the 1HP jet pump.  However, for a booster pump or really shallow well there is a 1HP, 33GPM Hallmark on the Internet for 130 bucks.  You could buy 3-4 of those for what a 10 GPM, 3/4HP will cost.

10
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: New Pump System
« on: April 15, 2019, 11:48:18 AM »
The depth is listed as "total suction lift" on the chart.  The J10S shows to build 72 PSI max, pump 15.8 GPM at 50 PSI, when lifting from 10' deep.  That should be plenty of water.  And the CSV will make it work all the way down to 1 GPM as needed.

11
This is the way we do it when the CSV1A needs to go out by the well and everything else in the house.

https://cyclestopvalves.com/pages/pk1am-pside-kick

12
There are a couple different ways you can skin that cat.  lol

Yes you can install a CSV125 or another CSV1A prior to the first tee.  And yes you can leave the CSV1A where it is, just need to tighten the adjusting bolt a few rounds so it doesn't do anything.  This way the CSV1A is just being used as a manifold for the tank, switch, gauge, etc.

Or you can install a manifold in the house for the tank, switch, gauge, and move the CSV1A outside and put it in the valve box before the first tee.

13
The 4.5 gallon tank is all you need.  Sometimes the 10 gallon tank gives people a warm and fuzzy feeling, which is also fine.   :)

14
A 3/4HP, 10 GPM pump will produce 9 GPM from 220' of head.  62 PSI is the same as 143'.  So the pump is probably lifting from about 77' deep.  A 1HP, 10 GPM pump would give you 35 PSI more.  62 PSI should peal your skin off in the shower, IF it is making it to the shower.  The softener and 3 stage filter maybe robbing you of 20-30 PSI.  A pressure gauge on any faucet after the filters will give you this reading, which must be taken while using the 9 GPM flow.  If this is correct you will need a larger pump and more pressure to push through the filters, or filters with less friction loss.  Also make sure all the cartridges are clean.  Or you can just take the cartridges out to test the pressure loss.

Of course a 1HP pump is not going to stay at 80 PSI while using 9 GPM, it will cycle on and off between 70 and 90.  That is when you need the CSV1A to hold a constant 80 PSI or whatever pressure you want while using as much or as little water as needed in the house.
'

15
If the pressure goes low and stays low while using multiple outlets, then you need a larger pump.  If the pump is cycling on and off between 50 and 70 while using multiple outlets, then the cycling is causing the low pressure.  In this case the CSV will keep the pressure at a constant 60 PSI, instead of letting it go 50 to 70 over and over.  60 PSI constant is much stronger shower pressure than when it is going 50 to 70 over and over.

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