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Messages - Cary Austin

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Applications / Re: Will this valve help my well
« on: November 14, 2019, 09:06:54 AM »
Sorry.  Been home sick.  Sometimes reducing the flow rate of the pump will help keep from stirring up the sediment.  But you really just need a ball valve to throttle the pump to fill a pond, not a CSV.  The CSV would only reduce the flow from the pump to match the amount being used. A ball valve will reduce the amount being used.

Frequently Asked Questions / Lead in Water
« on: November 07, 2019, 10:49:25 AM »
Solid lead pipes were the norm for hundreds/thousands of years.  An oxide patina quickly coats the inside of the pipe and makes it perfectly safe for drinking water.   Lead in a faucet is a small problem because the water is not moving, just sitting in the faucet for hours before being needed.  You don't have to run the water very long to clear out the little that was in the faucet to have safe drinking water.  With the older lead solder in the pipes, you have to run a few gallons to expel what was in the pipes, which doesn't take long. Hot water will cause lead to leach out, but hot water is not usually a concern for drinking.  Lead "was" a very important part of plumbing.  The word Plumb means lead in Latin I think.  Lead makes brass and other metals less expensive, easier to work, and last much longer. 

So, why do we think lead in plumbing is so bad?  "Someone" in Flint Michigan decided to use a cheaper supply of water for the city.  They also decided they didn't need those expensive anti-corrosion or PH modifiers in the new supply of water.  The new more caustic supply of water dissolved all the lead oxide patina from the inside of the pipes, then started dissolving the lead itself.  But the solid lead pipes that hadn't been a problem in a hundred years took the blame.  All of a sudden lead is bad!  Blaming the lead pipes takes the focus off what/who really caused the problem, and we are all paying for it.  Manufacturers have spent billions redesigning products without lead, and even more money getting "certified lead free and safe".  These certifications are mandated by our government officials, the same as the ones who were in control of water quality at Flint.  The independent companies the government has picked to do the certifications are raking in the profits.  All this cost gets passed right on down to the consumers, who are paying several times more money for plumbing products that last several times less than they should.  Switching to plastic just eliminates one of many ways your water quality can still be screwed up by a bureaucracy.

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Cycle Sensor
« on: October 14, 2019, 07:36:43 AM »
Reading a small number when the pump is off is normal. Reading a little differently from your amp meter is also normal. Just make sure to use the reading of the Cycle Sensor to make the adjustment.

25 minutes is probably about right. It is not that important as long as the pump runs at least a minute or two each time it comes on. If the pump doesn't run a minute or two before the Cycle Sensor says DRY, increase the restart delay time.

It is just the weight can bend the neck.  If braced properly the 10 gallon tank can be mounted anyway you want.

Irrigation / Re: Proper installation
« on: October 08, 2019, 04:04:53 PM »
When drawing from an above ground tank I like a check valve on the suction side of the pump.  Just make sure it is not too small and you won't have any restrictions causing problems.  But the check could also be installed just prior to the CSV's and it wouldn't make any difference in back pressure or how the CSV works.

If you are seeing cavitation, like worm hole divots in the impellers, it is usually from working too close to the shut off head of the pump.  The pressure switch needs to shut the pump off at least 10 PSI lower than the max or shut off head of the pump.

But if it has been working with the CSV's "for many years", it is probably fine.  if it ain't broke don't fix it.   :D

Frequently Asked Questions / Re: CSV back pressure question
« on: October 08, 2019, 03:59:32 PM »
On 240V a 1/2HP uses 5 amps, a 3/4HP uses 7 amps, and a 1Hp is 9 amps.

Frequently Asked Questions / Re: CSV back pressure question
« on: October 08, 2019, 06:51:39 AM »
With a 20 amp breaker it can't be any larger than 1/2 or 3/4HP.  That would only build 100-150 PSI back pressure.  That should be 160# pipe, which is good to at least twice that much.  I prefer metal barb fittings with two hose clamps on each side, but it is not too much pressure for the nylon ones as long as everything is good and tight.  And while you are at it, remove that extra check valve that will sooner or later start causing water hammer on pump start.

I assume the bad pump you are talking about is the Grundfos Scala or MQ?  Those are just made to extract as much money as they can from your wallet.  The Grundfos JP regular jet pump is a good long lasting type pump.  I prefer a good heavy cast iron housing but either of the Grundfos JP pumps are good.  Using a regular jet pump with a PK1A control kit will deliver strong constant pressure to the house and makes the pump last a long time.

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Is a liquid level control necessary?
« on: October 05, 2019, 06:00:07 PM »
Yes you can.  Probes down the well are kind of an old way of protecting a pump from running dry.  The Cycle Sensor is a much easier way to do that, and then you can use those two extra wires for anything you want.

Frequently Asked Questions / Re: Pump Sizing Help
« on: September 28, 2019, 06:46:39 AM »
Filter after the CSV.

Frequently Asked Questions / Re: Pump Sizing Help
« on: September 27, 2019, 09:05:24 AM »
I would prefer the J7S.  More volume if needed that way.

A regular pressure switch just will not let you adjust to less than about 20 PSI differential.  Sometimes backing all the way off on the little screw will give you like 17 PSI between on and off, but not always.  There are other pressure switches that will do less than 20 PSI Delta but they are not cheap.  I have an electronic pressure switch that will do as little as 10 PSI differential.  You can find it at this link.

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Pressure tank replacement
« on: September 17, 2019, 03:34:13 PM »
They can also replace an existing line under a slab.  They drag something through that breaks up the old line as it pulls through a new one.

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Pressure tank replacement
« on: September 17, 2019, 02:14:06 PM »
Sounds like your new tank may have 50 PSI air charge instead of the 28 PSI it needs?  That is what causes a quick drop from 50 down.  Also sounds like you may have found the leak.  Sometimes it is easier to just run a new line.  It is not cheap, but you can even bore under things and not have to chip them up.  A short bore can be done with a home made jet on a piece of pipe attached to a garden hose.

Frequently Asked Questions / Re: problem with cycle sensor
« on: September 16, 2019, 05:01:18 PM »
The amps will vary with the flow rate according to the pump curve.  Unusual to go up with an increase in tank fill, but every pump is different.  Doesn't hurt anything and it sounds like everything is working good. 

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