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Messages - Cary Austin

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Frequently Asked Questions / Re: Installation in Cabin??
« on: February 20, 2020, 10:12:31 AM »
Yeah you have a waterlogged tank.  It needs to be replaced.  You can use one of the PK1A kits to replace the tank, but the line to the old tank will need to be plugged.

Frequently Asked Questions / Re: Installation in Cabin??
« on: February 20, 2020, 07:06:36 AM »
Yes you can insulated and heat tape the pump and PK1A kit, or just drain it.  You don't have to dig up and remove the old tank, but it needs to be disconnected from the water line.  Bad tanks grow nasty stuff inside that you don't want in the house.

Cycle Sensor has nothing to do with it.  The generator should not stop and then come back on?  When there is too much load the breaker on the generator should trip, but the gen set should keep running?  Probably has something to do with the automatic operating controls on the generator.

Sorry for your problems!  The pipe in the well should be stronger.  Never use glued sch 40 PVC in the well.  You can use threaded sch 80 with metal couplings, or 125-160# black poly pipe with long barb fittings and two hose clamps at each. 

Small sand is hard to keep out.  But a fine gravel pack and really small perferations would help a lot.  The driller maybe able to drop a pipe and blow the sand out with air.  If he will blow for a while after the well is open again, it may get rid of a lot of sand.

Also pumping the well hard like 25-30 GPM from that pump could draw in sand.  You want to valve off the flow from the pump so it doesn't pull the water level down very much.  If you pull the water level down a lot, the sand above dries out and sluffs off like beach sand.  Keep the water level high, the sand stays wet, and doesn't sluff off.

Yes, yes, and yes.  I wish everyone understood how the CSV works as well as you do.   :)

All sounds about right.  Except with a 44 gallon tank (10 gallon draw) using a 40/60 switch and setting the CSV to 55 PSI it should take about 30 seconds before the tank is filled to the 3/4 full level and the CSV starts working before you see the 150 PSI on the inlet side. 

And yes the water just goes right past the tank and straight to the shower or faucet, as the CSV is only producing exactly the amount being used.  There is no extra water produced to go into the tank, so it goes right to the faucet.

If the shower is on and the CSV is holding 55 PSI steady, it should also take 30 seconds before the CSV starts working after the pump is started at 40 PSI.  But that part happens really fast with a 44 gallon tank, so you have to be watching quick.

With a 40/60 switch and the CSV set at 55 PSI the tank is 3/4 full before the CSV starts to work.  Then the CSV should hold 55 PSI constant for as long as you are using water.  When the faucets are turned off, the CSV only has to put the last 2-3 gallons it the tank to get it from 55 to 60 PSI, which should take 2-3 minutes.  2-3 minutes is about as long as you need the pump to run filling the tank.  So, you can adjust the CSV up to say 57 PSI and it will take closer to 2 minutes.

But whatever time it takes to fill the tank, it should take at least that much time every pump cycle.  So if the pump runs 200 seconds to fill the tank, set the Cycle Sensor for 150 seconds.  When/if you lose air charge in the tank and it takes less than 150 seconds to fill, the Cycle Sensor will shut the pump off.  The Cycle Sensor is sensitive enough to let you know when the tank is just slightly low on air.  It will shut the pump off at 150 seconds, which is way before the tank is waterlogged and causing the pump to cycle every second or two.

Wow!  You are doing good!  You don't need much help.  The check valve on the 25GS15 pump is really the only one needed.  The tank should be fine and will need 50 PSI air charge before installing to use with the 55/75 pressure switch.  At that pressure tanks don't hold as much water so you could really use two of those 5.3 gallon size tanks or one larger tank.  But with lite use the 5.3 gallon will still be fine.

To set the pressure switch just turn the large adjustment screw until it comes on at about 55 and off at about 75.  Doesn't have to be exact.  Best not to mess with the small adjustment screw.

After the pressure tanks just go on to the filters and to use at the house anyway you want.

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: PRV and pressure
« on: January 17, 2020, 12:59:31 PM »
A regular Square D FSG2 pressure switch will only turn up to about 75 PSI before the spring has no daylight between the coils and will not work.  Loosen all the way on the small adjustment screw and leave it that way.  Then adjust the large screw to get the pressure switch to shut off where you want.

The PRV is adjustable.  Just take off the cap and tighten the adjustment screw until it quits leaking, then tighten another 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

I am also an old well driller.  Been in the business for about 50 years.  I would be glad to answer any questions you have.  I saw were you were asking on another forum, which is the worst forum to be asking any questions on.  Wasting your time and getting bad answers over there.

Frequently Asked Questions / Re: Pressure relief valve leaking
« on: December 31, 2019, 06:47:41 AM »
A clogged nipple to the pressure switch is a common reason for the problem you were having.  Glad you got it working!

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Submersible Well pump and Radon system
« on: December 30, 2019, 07:04:28 AM »
Reduce the CSV setting or increase the pressure switch setting to get 1 minute or so fill time.  If the pressure tank is still filling when the aeration tank calls for more water the well pump will not have shut off by then.

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Submersible Well pump and Radon system
« on: December 24, 2019, 07:32:12 AM »
When using a 40/60 switch, adjust the CSV to hold 50 PSI constant while the shower is running.  Sounds like the adjustment bolt is too tight.

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: CSV1a stuck closed
« on: December 24, 2019, 07:30:02 AM »
Unless the diaphragm is torn and leaking it will be fine.  Probably just need to clean out the iron and get the shaft moving freely again, and it will work fine.  Cleaning out iron that clogs things up is normal, and may need some chlorine or CLR.

The Goulds submersible should have a check valve on it, and that is the only one you need.  The run time calculator is for worst case scenarios only.  You only need that large of a tank if you have less than 1 GPM leaking 24 hours a day.   Normally system do not leak so a 4.5 gallon size tank is fine, a 10 gallon is the largest I would use.  Cycle Sensor is a good idea if there is any chance of pumping the well dry.

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