The plastic CSV’s are my favorite. That is what I use at my house. They have almost no friction loss and no reduced pressure falloff. So they give you more water from the pump than our other valves, and hold a constant pressure throughout the 1 to 25 GPM range.
The design of this valve, which reduces losses so well, is also the reason that these valves can leak a little through the air vents. The valves only leak when there are abrasives or slimy stuff in the water, and then they usually only leak about 1 gallon per week. As long as the valve is installed inside the well casing or inside the cistern, who cares if it leaks a gallon a week? The CSV1 does not have to be submerged, but installed inside the cistern tank either way does negate most of the problems with this valve. That little leak can only be a problem if the valve is installed where it can make a wet spot on the floor.
As long as the plastic CSV’s can vent, they will work. So if you have something slimy in the water, we have instructions on how to drill a larger vent hole to keep the slimy stuff from clogging up the air vent. See this link.
http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/prod_csv1_submerged.htmlThe 1” plastic CSV’s are only 63 bucks. So you really can’t afford not to use one. And when used with a small pressure tank they save hundreds on equipment costs.
You will want to add a little chlorine occasionally to keep the growth out of the cistern tank. With any system that has a water quality issue that can affect the CSV, pressure tank, pressure switch, check valves, etc., I recommend a Cycle Sensor for protection. See this link.
http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/prod_sensor.htmlThe Cycle Sensor will shut the pump down if the CSV, pressure tank, or pressure switch malfunction and lets the pump start cycling too fast. It will also shut the pump off if you pump the cistern dry. Both of these things can save the pump/motor if something does get clogged up.