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Irrigation / Re: Large Irrigation system
« Last post by Cary Austin on July 15, 2019, 07:22:47 AM »
Sorry I missed this.  Than TKB4!
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Yeah something like this.
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I did not realize that I could get by with only running a ball valve and Cycle Sensor between the pump and filter system without using a pressure tank and switch, that would save me some money.

I am thinking that the holding tank would need a high volume pump and PK1A to feed the house, gardens and yard.

Thank you again for your help.
Ken
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I don't understand.  If all the well does is fill the storage tank you should not need a CSV, pressure tank/pressure switch.  A gate valve would work to adjust the flow, but a ball valve would be better.  You can adjust it to run a long time before the Cycle Sensor shuts it off from running dry, or you can let it run wide open and let the Cycle Sensor turn it off and on until it hits the float switch.  Usually something in the middle of that is best with just some restriction using a ball valve.
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Thank you Cary,
I will definitely need a booster pump and CSV between the holding tank and the house, but between the submersible pump in the well and the filter system that will go to the holding tank, I will need something that is easily adjustable to control the volume of water.

Do you think that a gate valve before a CSV would work well for adjusting the volume? I want to get as much volume as possible out of the well and into the holding tank without overwhelming the replenishment of the well. I’m thinking that I can keep closing a gate valve until the Cycle Sensor no longer turns off the pump.

Thanks again
Ken
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The bolt on the CSV adjust the pressure only.  You determine how much the pump is producing by how many faucets you have open.  The CSV knows how much water you are using by the pressure.  When the CSV is set to 30 PSI, you will have 30 PSI in the house no matter if you have one faucet or three faucets open.  When the CSV sees the pressure drop to 29, it know you opened another faucet and it opens up to give you more water.  When the CSV sees 31 PSI, it knows you have closed a faucet, and it closes to give you less water.  It is all the time tying to maintain the 30 PSI you set it for.

Have you not seen this video?
https://vimeo.com/248374194
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Thank you TKB4,
I must be missing something, because I’m having trouble understanding how this can be.

Is the CSV only maintaining the pressure between the pump and the CSV and not the pressure between the CSV and the house?

Without a CSV, when my pump shuts off at 60psi, my volume of water in the house is higher than when my tank pressure is 40psi. Without a pressure switch shutting off the pump, my pump is capable of producing more than 60psi and I would guess a higher volume of water.

Let’s say I had a pump that produces 10gpm at the faucet in my house and it is capable of exceeding 60psi. Now let’s say I change nothing but adding a CSV that is set at 30psi. How many gpm will I now have at the faucet in the house and what psi would I have in the house?

I thank you for your time and help. I really appreciate it.
Ken
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No , the CSV maintains the pressure it is set at once the pressure switch turns on and the water pressure rises to its setting as long as at least one gallon per minute is flowing .   So, if your pump can pump 10 gallons per minute without a CSV valve at its pressure setting  it can also pump 10 gallons per minute with the CSV but you cannot adjust the CSV to limit the flow to say 2 gallons per minute.   That actually is the beauty of the CSV it allows constant pressure but variable volume of flow.

Cary may be able to explain differently

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Can I reduce the volume of water being pumped  out of the well by adjusting the CSV?
 Thanks
Ken
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Valve Tech / Re: CSV1A leaking at screw on top of spring cage
« Last post by Cary Austin on July 12, 2019, 07:59:23 AM »
It is easy to do.  Just call me if you need some help.  The only thing anybody does wrong is get the little brass washer (slip ring) upside down.  Make sure the sharp edge of the brass washer is facing up, not down, or it will cut the rubber diaphragm.  If you don't mess with the adjustment bolt it won't even need re-adjusting.

Here is a parts breakdown.
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