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Applications / Re: Will this valve help my well
« Last post by olddude on November 14, 2019, 11:09:27 AM »
OK, but I was thinking that is what the csv did.
Applications / Re: Will this valve help my well
« Last post by Cary Austin on November 14, 2019, 09:06:54 AM »
Sorry.  Been home sick.  Sometimes reducing the flow rate of the pump will help keep from stirring up the sediment.  But you really just need a ball valve to throttle the pump to fill a pond, not a CSV.  The CSV would only reduce the flow from the pump to match the amount being used. A ball valve will reduce the amount being used.
Applications / Re: Will this valve help my well
« Last post by olddude on November 14, 2019, 08:41:36 AM »
Applications / Will this valve help my well
« Last post by olddude on November 12, 2019, 12:46:07 PM »
I think I understand the purpose of a CSV and I have read somewhere that My well might benefit from the use of one. I have a 25 year old well that over the years has filled in quite a bit. When I noticed the problem it had filled in and the pump was 4' under the sand. How it kept going I don't know but one day it overheated and blew the breaker. I pulled it out and cleaned it out and just for grins tried it to see if it was completely fried. I applied power and it ran so I dropped it back in but raise it up another 15' from where it was. I didn't figure it would last to long so I bought a new pump to have on hand when it finally gave up. That was 6 years ago and it's still going.

The well supplies all the water we need and more for normal household use but I have to limit the run time if I want to maintain my Koi pond or water the lawn. I had it pretty much figured out that I could run the water for 20 minutes and have no problem with the supply stopping up my filters. After about 45 min it would start to turn my pond water white and I would have to change my filters several times before it would clear up.

I have a sand filter installed but the screen must not be fine enough for this very fine clay like sand. I was told by someone that if I could restrict the flow from the pump that it would slow down the amount of water required to replenish the well thus slowing down the amount sand entering the well. I still have 20+ feet of water over the pump. The well is encased in 4' diameter concrete well casing that is 72' deep.

I don't have a problem with cleaning out some of the silt and probably will at some time. Actually I was waiting for this pump to finally give up before I did it but the old girl just keep on going. I am just wondering if one of these valves would help until she finally does go boom.
Frequently Asked Questions / Lead in Water
« Last post by Cary Austin on November 07, 2019, 10:49:25 AM »
Solid lead pipes were the norm for hundreds/thousands of years.  An oxide patina quickly coats the inside of the pipe and makes it perfectly safe for drinking water.   Lead in a faucet is a small problem because the water is not moving, just sitting in the faucet for hours before being needed.  You don't have to run the water very long to clear out the little that was in the faucet to have safe drinking water.  With the older lead solder in the pipes, you have to run a few gallons to expel what was in the pipes, which doesn't take long. Hot water will cause lead to leach out, but hot water is not usually a concern for drinking.  Lead "was" a very important part of plumbing.  The word Plumb means lead in Latin I think.  Lead makes brass and other metals less expensive, easier to work, and last much longer. 

So, why do we think lead in plumbing is so bad?  "Someone" in Flint Michigan decided to use a cheaper supply of water for the city.  They also decided they didn't need those expensive anti-corrosion or PH modifiers in the new supply of water.  The new more caustic supply of water dissolved all the lead oxide patina from the inside of the pipes, then started dissolving the lead itself.  But the solid lead pipes that hadn't been a problem in a hundred years took the blame.  All of a sudden lead is bad!  Blaming the lead pipes takes the focus off what/who really caused the problem, and we are all paying for it.  Manufacturers have spent billions redesigning products without lead, and even more money getting "certified lead free and safe".  These certifications are mandated by our government officials, the same as the ones who were in control of water quality at Flint.  The independent companies the government has picked to do the certifications are raking in the profits.  All this cost gets passed right on down to the consumers, who are paying several times more money for plumbing products that last several times less than they should.  Switching to plastic just eliminates one of many ways your water quality can still be screwed up by a bureaucracy.
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Cycle Sensor
« Last post by Cary Austin on October 14, 2019, 07:36:43 AM »
Reading a small number when the pump is off is normal. Reading a little differently from your amp meter is also normal. Just make sure to use the reading of the Cycle Sensor to make the adjustment.

25 minutes is probably about right. It is not that important as long as the pump runs at least a minute or two each time it comes on. If the pump doesn't run a minute or two before the Cycle Sensor says DRY, increase the restart delay time.
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Cycle Sensor
« Last post by Lou N on October 13, 2019, 05:19:30 PM »

I Installed a Cycle Sensor this weekend w/o issues. A couple of questions:

1. The sensor is showing .03A when the pressure switch is open. I tried resetting the breaker to zero it out, but once the pump runs it went back to .03. Is that normal or perhaps there's a fine adjustment?

2. The current on the one leg of the incoming line with a clamp on meter is approx. 5.75A, but the Cycle Sensor is reading approx 3.65A at the same time. Is that normal, or is it the way I'm taking the measurement?

3. Is there a way to determine the well refill time using the Cycle Sensor? I have it set at 25 minutes now.

BTW: I also want to thank Cary for all his help on another forum. Thx...

Frequently Asked Questions / Re: CSV1A with 10 Gallon tank - install vertically
« Last post by Cary Austin on October 10, 2019, 08:32:19 AM »
It is just the weight can bend the neck.  If braced properly the 10 gallon tank can be mounted anyway you want.
Frequently Asked Questions / CSV1A with 10 Gallon tank - install vertically
« Last post by thindoog on October 10, 2019, 07:15:03 AM »
I purchased the 10 gallon tank with my CSV valve and was planning on installing the tank horizontally until I read in the CSV instructions that if using the 10 Gal tank it MUST be mounted vertically. I have seen some of the pictures in the review section that show some people having it horizontally mounted. Is the note in the instructions mainly due to the extra weight concern or is there another reason that it should be mounted vertically? I was going to provide extra support for the tank if mounting horizontally. 
Irrigation / Re: Proper installation
« Last post by Cary Austin on October 08, 2019, 04:04:53 PM »
When drawing from an above ground tank I like a check valve on the suction side of the pump.  Just make sure it is not too small and you won't have any restrictions causing problems.  But the check could also be installed just prior to the CSV's and it wouldn't make any difference in back pressure or how the CSV works.

If you are seeing cavitation, like worm hole divots in the impellers, it is usually from working too close to the shut off head of the pump.  The pressure switch needs to shut the pump off at least 10 PSI lower than the max or shut off head of the pump.

But if it has been working with the CSV's "for many years", it is probably fine.  if it ain't broke don't fix it.   :D
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