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Messages - rlawrence

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1
Then again, I replaced pressure a tank with the pside-kick set up when I replaced the original Ace pump. 

2
I'm pretty sure it's this one:  Ace Cast Iron Shallow Well Jet Pump 1/2 hp 9.2 115 volts(ACE5S)
Item no: 45436 | 082901454366

And I'm pretty sure it's the same model as the original one.

What do you recommend?  It's a shallow well, not a cistern.


3
Original pump that failed (cracked impeller housing) in the winter was a 1/2 hp ACE shallow well jet pump.  The second pump that failed with the cracked connector was a 3/4 hp Wayne shallow well jet pump.  This last pump is also 1/2 hp ACE shallow well jet pump, just like the original.  Should be able to build sufficient pressure.  240v feed. 

How do I clear the jet nozzle?

Thanks again!

4
Good morning, Cary.  Hope you're well.

A few weeks ago you helped to answer my questions under another post with the same subject line.  Got it working finally with your assistance.  Thanks!

I have a new problem.  After the install, one of the pvc screw connectors failed, spewing water.  Unfortunately, we didn't become aware of the failure until a couple of days later. I fixed the broken connector, but when I switched the pump on, it froze up and began smoking.  I replaced it with a new pump, and it's pumping great.  At a flow rate of 3 GPM, the pressure needle hovers at 20 psi.
When I shut of the flow, the pressure builds up to 40 psi.  However, it does not build up pressure beyond 40 psi, and the pump continues to run. Pressure stays at 40 psi, so it can't reach the cut out at 60 psi. 

Believing there must have been an air leak on the suction side, I tested all visible connection points with foam (shaving cream), but couldn't find any air leaks.  So I decided to dismantle the system on the suction side from the foot valve to the pump intake, making sure that every pvc pipe had clean, straight ends, and the couplings, elbows, etc. were well-soldered and tight. 

With all new plumbing installed, I switched the pump on, but I'm getting the same results.  I figure it's got to be something else.  Even the pressure switch was replaced! 

Any thoughts, please? 

5
Thank you again for sending the pressure switch.  However, I'm returning it unused.  You nailed it!  When I returned to camp, I found that I'd wired the M1 and M2 on the CSV1A side to the L1 and L2 on the pump's pressure switch.  Reconnected them to the M1 and M2 of the pump's switch, and all is working great!  Thanks for your patience, and for your generosity. 

Best Regards,

Bob

6
Oh, wow!  That's very generous.  If I find that I've wired it correctly, and the problem is with the switch, I'll just replace it with the one you send.  That way I won't have to bother with the sensing tube.  Many thanks.  I'll let you know how it turns out.

7
I really appreciate all your help, Cary!  I'm positive that I've wired it correctly, but of course I'll check to be sure when I go back to the camp.  If it's wired correctly, it may be that the CSV pressure switch is faulty.  Will the system work correctly if the pressure switch on the pump is the only one that is energized?   If not, seems my only other option would be to replace the pressure switch that came with the PSIDE-Kick Kit.   Maybe I could remove the one on the pump and install it near the CSV.  It's different from the one that comes with the kit, and it's not a Square-D.  I think it's a LEFOO.

8
Well is 80 miles away at my camp.  Best I can do is to send a diagram of how I wired it.  Please see attached.

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Yes, I have done that.  Adjusted the large nut 4 complete turns, which should have increased the pressure range by 10 psi (2-1/2 psi per turn, as I understand).  Made no difference in the pressure reading or the cycling.

10
Thank you for the quick response!  Actually, I followed the wiring instructions for wiring to a jet pump as illustrated in the documentation that came with the PSIDE-Kick Kit.  Power lines L1 and L2 are connected to the outer posts on the CSV pressure switch.  The two middle posts  (motor) on the CSV pressure switch are connected to the two "motor" posts on the pump's pressure switch as a pass-through.  L1 and L2 on the pump motor's pressure switch are not connected at all.  Therefore, only the pressure switch to the CSV should be/is energized and in control of the system's pressure range, correct? 

I don't think it makes a difference, but it may be helpful to know that the pump is powered for 230v setting on the motor, and not 115v.   

11
I just replaced my well equipment with a Wayne 3/4 hp shallow well pump, the PSIDE-Kick kit, but I'm having problems with pressure.  I've wired the pressure switches on the PSIDE Kick and pump motor as illustrated in the instructions.  When I turn on spigot to 2-3 gpm, the pump raises the pressure gauge to 40 psi and gradually falls to about 30 psi.  Then it suddenly dips to 20 psi, at which point the pump cuts in and pressure rises again and cuts out at 40 psi.  The cycle repeats itself.  When the water is shut off, the pressure builds to 40 psi, cuts out and drops to 38 psi.  The needle stays at 38 psi. 

Both pressure gauges are factory set at 40/60.  I haven't adjusted the CSV1A at all, as I assume it is also set at the factory to operate within the 40/60 range.  It seems the system is set to 20/40. I've adjusted to the PSIDE-Kick pressure switch (large nut) to increase the range, but it continues to cut in and out at 20/40.

Please explain what I'm must be missing. 

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