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Messages - bjm999

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2
To help avoid any issues ruining the threads by tightening the close nipple, I'm thinking about using a non close nipple and reworking the PVC pipe with new PVC parts to the union that is right below the white tee you can see in the pics.  The union is covered by insulation in the pic.  What material nipple do you recommend since it's potable water?  Not sure if galv carbon steel is the best choice now that I see all the rust from the leak.  Thanks!


3
Good info!  BTW, do you think the slow leak could be from too much sediment in the well water?  Seems like I remember you once saying this model was great as long as I didn't have much sediment.  I was going to try this valve instead of the CSV2W I had and hope I got a long life from the CSV12560-3.  So could the leak be the valve starting to fail due to higher sediment?  I dont think I have high sediment but it's kinda hard to quantify.

4
I suppose it could be.  Not sure how to tell.  When I look at it the leak point isn't obvious.  I called the office and they are sending another valve.  I'll get a replacement nipple as well and change both.  What is the best way to tighten a close nipple without damaging the threads??? 

Due to it being a close nipple, the entire length is threaded so there's not an area to put a wrench without potentially damaging the threads.  The distance between the tee and the CSV is shorter than typical wrenches are wide.  Hope that makes sense.  Any ideas?

5
Oh shoot.  I didn't realize it may be too tight already.  It didn't leak early on but I will certainly use teflon tape this time in addition to pipe dope.  Last time I only used pipe dope.  Thank you for replacing it!  I'll call the office now.

BTW, how many rounds of teflon tape should I use?  Thanks again!

6
I'm back... ;D

So as you can see from page 3.  I installed the CSV12560-3 about a year ago.  I noticed about a month ago that I have a very slow leak.  Not sure how long I've had a leak since I don't look very often.

Here are some pics of my current situation...







You can see where a few drops have formed here circled in red.



I need to get the leak fixed so I can add heat tracing to the pipe and reinsulate it due to the cold weather. 

So I'm guessing the valve just needs a little tightening.  Where should I try to tighten the valve (the white section in the left of the pics or the red ring?  Do you think it's safe to tighten it without a spare valve?

Thanks for your help!





7
Maybe that's the problem then.  Maybe the pump was just undersized.

8
Yeah my understanding from the guy the installed the well, the depth to water is around 160 but due to water quality the pump is around 350 ft deep.  Would that make sense based on the data from this thread?

9
Are you guessing the depth to water is around 150ft or the actual pump depth is around 150ft?

10
This makes a lot of sense.  That would be a nice setup and probably last a long time.  From my quick googling that's not going to be a cheap fix.  Is changing a well pump that may be 300 feet or more deep something the average homeowner could do?  I'm guessing a pro would charge several thousand to make that change.  May be hard to talk the wife into do that.  ;D

11
I didn't rerun the test with the gauges swapped.  I can do that though.

Wow, down to 2 GPM....that's pretty good!  Would 2 GPM be enough to keep the pump cool or create any other issues?  Would I be able to take it up to 65 or 70 PSI while still having constant pressure down to 2 GPM...or maybe 3 GPM?  That may just be enough pressure to allow me to install a backflow preventer that is probably needed for my irrigation.

12
Yeah, I'd love to have a bypass with the flowmeter.  Then I could turn the flowmeter on when needed and off when not needed thus eliminating the pressure loss during normal conditions.  That probably more trouble than it's worth...but the engineer in me wants to figure this out before letting it go. Lol!

If I went with a larger pump, which would you recommend?  Probably couldn't get one to have constant pressure for my irrigation and house water fixtures I bet.  Ie. If I went with a 5hp pump I'd probably have constant pressure for my irrigation but be stuck with a cycling pump for the indoor fixtures.

13
Sorry in my last post I meant 60 psi not gpm. :)

I would like to add a flowmeter but not sure where to put it.  It may require several pipe diameters of length before and after.  I've had trouble in the past finding a flowmeter reasonably priced for the pipe diameter and range I need.  Do you recommend any?  Something still doesn't seem to be adding up.  The pressure gauges aren't reliable due to error and the flows don't make sense.

Thanks!

14
Sorry for the late reply!  Also, thanks for replying and offering possible solutions.  Having some zones before the CSV and some after would require 2 mainlines and 2 controllers.  I think for now, I'll continue to try the CSV12560-3.  I also need to add more sod and another zone near Zone 7.  The new zone was going to be small so I can spilt some head on Zone 7 off to the new zone to help both Zone 7 and the new zone flow rate/pressure.

What's weird is when I tested the water flow in post 4 I got ~35 GPM conservatively.  There's no way Zone 3 is putting out more than about 24 GPM.  Any idea why this zone isn't getting to 60 GPM?

Do you think the stainless version of the CSV12560-3 would last longer?

Thanks again for your help!

15
Yes the sprinklers are shooting far enough.  I guess this thread was more about optimizing my system.  By that I mean getting a more optimum pressure at the heads (better distribution, coverage, etc.) while also trying to get constant pressure in the house more than I previously did which was never lol.  The CSV12560-3 has done a better job of those things but I'm not sure if it's worth the extra maintenance and long term expense.  I may just see how long it lasts and go from there.

I think the bottom line is I'm likely on the edge of what my pump can produce flow wise and that is leading to the CSV not being much help at giving me constant pressure for most irrigation zones.  It also doesn't give me constant pressure inside the house during most uses.  Really the CSV is only helping give constant pressure at 60PSI on maybe 3-4 zones and inside the house when multiple fixtures are being used.  The pressure drop of the CSV may not be worth the help of providing such limited constant pressure...again this is due to my pump struggling not the CSV. 

I can't help but wonder in my case, if a variable speed pump would be the best answer.  I could eliminate the CSV thus gaining the pressure drop caused by the valve. That would further optimize my irrigation and get more zones closer to the preferred 40 PSI.  It would also create a constant pressure inside the house at most or all flow rates ie. only 1 fixture being used.

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