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Messages - Cary Austin

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1
An 86 gallon size pressure tank only hold 20 gallons of water.  The rest is air that is needed to push the 20 gallons out.  A water heater or any standard tank could be kept completely full of water.  But you would need an air compressor to push the water out.  Or you can use a 12V RV type pump to draw the water out of the tank, but the tank will then need to have a top vent open as well.

A generator to keep the well pump running during a power outage is usually best.


2
The CSV125 60psi is set to hold about 66psi on purpose. When you put it in the well and fight some gravity you still see north of 60psi at the surface. Optimal pressure switch would be 50/70.

Unless that 90ft is uphill too then 50/70 would be what you use.

The pressure tank (precharge 48psi) is filled from 50-70 to full drawdown every time the pump cycles. So a 60psi CSV is wide open and self flushes from 50-60psi and half of the tank fills at full pump rate. Then the CSV125 holds 60psi or so for you during the water demand. The last half of the tank is filled from 60-70 when you shut off demand like normal. It just does the tank fill slow so we like to use a smaller tank to make the shutoff happen within a minute or two. Otherwise we adjust the pressure switch so that it turns off after a minute or two no matter what pressure that happens to be.

Hope I am helping...

3
Hello,

It is hard to get a rough estimate on a new pump. Once you get the well finalized and figure the pumping and static levels then I can be of more help with the choosing. They should also give you at least 2 quote options. The pumps chosen are usually properly sized for the well depth, recharge rate, and work at a 60psi max flow rate if you ask for it. (most will size pumps at 50psi unless you ask for more)

Once we know what max flow and horsepower then we can figure the size of wire, pipe, and the pipe pressure ratings.

Will there be any water demands in the first 90ft from well head to the tank/filter?

Sorry for the delay in response...

CSV

4
Frequently Asked Questions / Re: pressure switch
« on: June 23, 2026, 02:43:12 PM »
Sorry for your problem. If it gets to 80 and doesn't shut off you need a new pressure switch. If it stays at 70 you might have a leak or worn pump.

5
Sorry for the delay.  Be glad to help with all your questions.  But first I am worried about the choice of pump.  The GT15 builds a max pressure of 51 PSI at deadhead.  This means you can use no higher than a 20/40 pressure switch.  If you can live with 20/40 and having a CVE set to hold a constant 30 or 35 we can make it work.  If you want more pressure look at the J15S instead.

6
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: pump cycling, question
« on: April 11, 2026, 08:12:04 PM »
Give us a call.  The problelm is probably something other than the CSV.

7
Irrigation / Re: Golf Course Irrigation
« on: March 23, 2026, 06:12:32 PM »
Sorry for the delay.  We are always glad to help over the phone, and sometimes it is easier.   Also sorry for your problem.  We will help any way we can.  Sounds like you have had good service from your CSV3B valve as it has worked well for 15 years or so.  Many times they can be repaired, but a complete replacement is not expensive either.  The new CSV3A has been improved over the CSV3B.  Most last longer than 15 years, but wear from sediment when pumping from lakes, ponds, and sandy wells will shorten their life.  Swap where the two hoses are attached.  If the valve shuts down and gives almost no flow or pressure, the the regulator is the problem.  If after switching the hoses the pump still cycles off when using water the big part of the valve is the problem.

8
Industrial / Re: CSV for dairy with multiple wells
« on: March 07, 2026, 09:29:42 AM »
That would work.  But if the frost line is not too deep in your area I prefer a larger valve box with a lid.

9
Industrial / Re: CSV for dairy with multiple wells
« on: March 05, 2026, 03:00:06 PM »
Sounds like a good plan.  But the CSC125 is the only valve we have that doesn't like iron or dirty water.  It will work, it just probably won't be long before they start leaking.  If these are less than 20 GPM pumps, the CSV1A is best.  But if they are 25 GPM or more the CSV3A2T would be needed. 

10
Thanks for the confirmation.  Figuring the back pressure from a CSV is fairly easy.  Subtract the static water level from the pumps shut off head and divide by 2.31.

11
The burst pressure of pipe and fittings is 2 to 5 times the rated pressure. So, no I am not worried about it.  Actually the back pressure from the CSV is easier on the pipe and fittings than without a CSV when the pump is cycling on/off and causing water hammer.

12
That is actually a pretty good well record.  It shows a 7 GPM, 3/4HP with a static of 175'.  100 PSI pipe is very low rated pipe but, I calculate the back pressure at only 97 PSI.

13
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: sediment filter question
« on: December 23, 2025, 09:33:11 AM »
One hose is usually not enough flow to get the well developed. Big chunks sometimes pump out easily. The smaller the filter size the sooner it needs cleaning. Sizing the filter to what needs filtering is best.

14
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: sediment filter question
« on: December 22, 2025, 09:04:05 AM »
Shouldn't be a problem.  A filter before the CSV will have high pressure and must be rated for 125-150 PSI.  A filter after the CSV will only see the 40/60 same as the pressure switch setting.

You might also want to pump out the well.  A big valve or multiple hoses open at the same time to move a high volume of water will bring the sand out with it.  Some wells need to be developed like this for hours or days, but then never make sand again.  Usually the well was just never developed properly to begin with.

15
Frequently Asked Questions / Re: Issues after replace tank and switch
« on: December 01, 2025, 08:44:26 AM »
Hello,

I don't think you needed the pressure switch with the lever. I would get one without personally. Is the tank the same small size?

The test I would do is when you are at 50psi wanting the pump to build to 60psi, close the main shutoff valve so we know everything is off. Have you tried this? It holding 50psi makes me think water is still flowing through the CSV and it is holding 50psi.

The pressure dropping to 20psi after you manually turn pump off makes me think water is going somewhere too or it would stay at 50psi then.

I wouldn't adjust the CSV. The settings do not change if they worked before. If you see leakage from the CSV at all let me know...

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