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Messages - Allen

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Hi Allen
Actually plastic pipe between the pump and CSV should be fine as long as the pump doesn't get hot.  A J10S has a max pressure of 76 PSI.  So if your pressure switch shuts off the pump at 66 PSI or lower, the 10 PSI differential will push enough through the CSV to keep the pump cool.  If your shut off is higher that 66 PSI, the water in the pump may get hot and soften plastic pipe.

Also if you lose prime the pump will get hot.  It is better to have a foot valve only and not a check valve on on a jet pump system, to prevent losing prime.

You can also use a Cycle Sensor as a protector to shut the pump down if it loses prime, which it will do long before the pump gets hot.

Changing to a galv nipple will only move the hot water problem to the pump.  If the nipple had not melted and started to leak, you would have probably melted the pump instead.  Still have to fix the real problem which is working at too high a pressure or losing prime.

I had three failures associated with the PVC piping between the Pside Kick and the pump.  I am an above average home plumber having worked as a pipefitter's assistant in a refinery for several summers while in college and having completely plumbed two homes including the one I've lived in the past 36 years.  I am not used to having my plumbing leak or fail.  Once I installed galvanized pipe between the pump and the Pside Kick I haven't had a problem. The difference in price is negligible and it is better suited particularly if the Pside Kick is installed directly on the pump as shown in your illustration.  At least that's my experience.


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Lessons learned by the home plumber.  Use galvanized pipe between the pump and the CCV.

3
Got the Pside Kick kit today.  How much will it add to the height of the pump if mounted on top as shown in the instructions?  I have a low pump house that may need to be modified.

Thanks!

4
Cary, thanks again for being so responsive and helpful. I now have a plan thanks to your guidance.

5
Cary, you do a great job!  I'm looking at a Goulds J10S jet pump to replace the Walrus.  The 1 hp J10S comes with a pressure switch but it looks to be externally mounted and should be easy to wire around. 

Since there is no such thing as a free lunch, what is the head loss across the CSV?  For example, if I am using the J10S with the CSV set at 50 psi, rule of thumb question: how much is the flow from the pump reduced from its rated value of 16 gpm or so at a 5-foot lift? (actual performance should be significantly better since the inlet will be under positive pressure)

Thank you again especially for turning me on the advantages of jet pumps used in booster service!
Allen Messenger

6
Wouldn't I use a booster pump rather than a jet pump since it is coming out of the storage tank?  Sounds like a side kick unit with one of the name brand booster pumps would be a good way to go.

7
I knew it is basically a disposal pump and I plan to replace it and plan to replace it and use it as an emergency backup.  What are some good brands that will provide long-term reliability? The nutshell is that the pressure controller needs to be on the distribution side of the CSV?

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Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Walrus Pump with Built In Pressure Switch
« on: November 21, 2015, 08:09:11 PM »
I have a 2,500 gallon storage tank filled by my well.  A Walrus TQ800 booster pump with a built in pressure switch preset to 36 and 69 psi, on and off, respectively, supplies water to my home.  My pressure tanks are about 60 feet away from the booster pump at the house.  Can I install a Cycle Stop Valve and is so how?

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