Messages

16

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Rusty water application

« on: September 15, 2010, 08:28:17 AM »

As long as the pump has a check valve, and the pressure tank has a pressure switch, you are good to go.  Let us know what you think about it.
Thanks

17

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Rusty water application

« on: September 14, 2010, 09:36:03 AM »

Rust will make a CSV1 start leaking.  You would be better off using a CSV1Z.  They can handle a lot of stuff.

18

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Can I just copy this?

« on: July 16, 2010, 03:10:35 PM »

Hi James
You can use anything you like, and if you need more just let me know.
Thanks
Karen

19

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: valve question

« on: July 05, 2010, 06:31:52 AM »

The 20 gallon tank will still be large enough...I would recommend the model CSV125 at the 40 or 50 psi setting depending on what your pressure switch setting is.  (40 psi with a 40/60 or 50 psi with 50/70)
It will have a control range of 3-50 gpm and a pressure tank fill rate of about 3 gpm...meaning that your 20 gallon tank..that has about 5-6 gallons of drawdown will take a minute or two to fill and turn your pump off when you are not using water.  Without the Cycle Stop...you would need an 119 gallon tank to get the same run time without the valve.  The CSV will need to be installed prior to any tee offs including the aerator tank. 

20

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Manifold

« on: June 15, 2010, 02:58:32 PM »

That is our pside-kick kit. 

http://cyclestopvalves.com/prod_psidekick_specs.html

We keep these in stock.

21

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Utilizing smaller tanks

« on: February 14, 2007, 02:53:14 PM »

Tom,

Yes, you can use a Cycle Stop Valve on your pump system.  Once the valve is added to your system,  you can use a pressure tank with as little as 10 gallons of drawdown because the pressure tank is no longer used to keep the pump from starting and stopping too often as that is now the valve's job.  Now the pressure tank serves a different purpose....to allow us to automate the system using a simple pressure switch, guarantees a minimum run time anytime the  pump is called to come on, and the bladder adds some give to the system to reduce any surge.  Because the valve makes your pump exactly match your demand, no water goes into the pressure tank as long as your demand is more than 5 gpm.  If your demand stops, the valve only allows the pressure tank to fill at a max rate of 5 gpm so until your shut off pressure is reached and the pump is turned off.  You can still get a minimum run time of 2 minutes with only 10 gallons of drawdown.  Not only will you be able to save many dollars using a smaller tank but you will also save many repair bills due to broken lines and worn out pumps.  Starting and stopping a pump tears up your pump but also causes additional wear on pressure switch points,  pressure tank bladders,  pipe lines, and capacitors and relays.  Keeping a pump running and holding constant pressure is  best your system for a mulititude of reasons and with a Cycle Stop Valve in control of your pump,  you can expect a constant pressure, variable demand system and still use a small pressure tank.

Karen Austin

22

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Valve worksheet/calculator

« on: February 14, 2007, 02:13:14 PM »

I am working on it Ron....will get one posted to the web site asap.  

Karen

23

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Pump Tec

« on: February 02, 2007, 10:40:14 AM »

The problem with a PumpTec is that when you use our product,  your amperage will vary according to your demand.  At the lowest amperage created by using our valve,  the pumptec sees that as a problem and will turn your system off....I do think that some people have tried setting the pump tec while demanding half of your normal demand.....in other words,  if you have a 10 gpm pump,  set your pump tec when you are using 5 gpm.  The Pumptec looks for a 25% amp drop and if the pump you have actually has a better brake horse drop than that (and some do...that is a good thing not a bad one...lower amps,  less electricity used) ,  the pump tec won't work.  Because the brake horse function is different on different brand pumps,  the only sure way to find out is to put an amp meter on your pump and using a gate valve before your pressure switch,  choke your demand down to  about 1 gpm and see what the amps are doing.  Then let your pump run at full flow and check the amps again.  If the drop is more than 25%,  the Pumptec will not work with a Cycle Stop because it will be turning your pump off on low amps when there is actually not a problem.
 
We make a product called the Cycle Sensor.  It is a pump monitor that looks for dry run and excessive cycles and can be adjusted as you need it to be so that it can tell the difference between low amps caused by the CSV and low amps caused by dry run.  It does work with our product.  You can get more info at http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/products.html#cyclesensor
 
Let me know if I can help further.