Messages

1291

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: off grid

« on: April 15, 2013, 07:45:37 AM »

With 18 PSI from gravity, if you use large enough pipe and drill out shower heads and such, you should not even need a pump.  That would be the best thing for an off grid system, no energy use at all.  However, if you want more pressure you can use as small as a 1/2 HP jet pump.  This will add about 40 PSI to the 18 you have coming.  I would use a couple of big bladder pressure tanks and no Cycle Stop Valve.  Anytime the pump is running you want max flow for the KW being used.  Letting the pump run at max flow and storing the excess in a pressure tank is the best way to do that.

1292

Valve Tech / Re: Leakage

« on: April 11, 2013, 03:00:56 PM »

I meant to say also that it doesn't matter why it leaks, we will still replace it if less than 12 months old.  But we will only replace it once.  So if you know you are going to have a problem with water quality or high pressure, you can instead ask for a credit towards the purchase of a CSV1A valve.  There is always a trade off however.  Because you can replace the plastic valve about three times for the price of a CSV1A.  Kind of depends on how long the plastic valves last in your application. 

I have a plastic valve that has been working for 16 years.  Of course it is installed inside the well casing so a small leak is never noticed.

1293

Valve Tech / Re: Leakage

« on: April 11, 2013, 08:19:15 AM »

Here is the link to info on that valve.
http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/prod_csv1_geninfo.html


“The CSV1/1.25 is recommended for potable water systems and does not tolerate bacteria, algae, or sand abrasion. It is very important that this model not be put in a bind as it will bend in the middle and begin to squirt water until it is straightened back up.

Over time, (how long depends on water quality) the CSV1/1.25 can begin to vent water to atmosphere. (The valve will not weep when the pump is not running as the weep is a function of the valve actuating and not a leak) The CSV1/1.25 valve will function correctly whether it is venting air or water. If this "weeping" is not acceptable for your application, * the CSV1/1.25 should be installed in the well casing using the CSC1/CSC1.25 coupling) An alternative model for most of the same applications would be the CSV1W or CSV1A. These models better tolerate bacteria, algae, and abrasives and do not vent water to atmosphere.”

It is possible that you got a new valve with a bad diaphragm, but very unlikely.  Plumbing the valve in a bind, something slimy or abrasive in the water, or a pump that can build more than 150 PSI are the only things that should make that valve leak.  But we do recommend that valve be installed in the well, outside, or somewhere where a small leak won’t cause a problem.

The CSV1A is made for inside installation and will not leak the way the plastic valves will.

1294

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Hydro Pneumatic to CSV setup

« on: March 27, 2013, 07:15:01 AM »

The Pside-Kick kit with the 4.5 gallon tank will work great with that pump.  The little tank will clear up a lot of space in the utility room, and the CSV1A will deliver great constant pressure to everyone in the house.  Even if you later discover that you have supfur or iron in the water, I have recently discovered a way oxidize in the well so you can still use a bladder style tank.  The "Sulfur Eliminator" is a system that can get rid of iron and sulfur in the well, and can be used with a bladder tank system.

1295

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Hydro Pneumatic to CSV setup

« on: March 26, 2013, 07:48:23 AM »

My first thought was it was this style simply due to the age of the system.

That is most likely right.  You would probably know if you have sulfur or iron.

1296

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Hydro Pneumatic to CSV setup

« on: March 25, 2013, 07:11:02 AM »

If you plug the bleeder orifice that is about 5’ down in the well, there is no problem replacing that big tank with a Pside-Kick kit and the 4.5 gallon tank.  Just make sure you don’t have an air over water type tank for a reason.  That kind of system is usually only used when you have iron or sulfur in the water.  Mixing air with the water helps eliminate the iron and the sulfur smell if you have those things in your water.  If you have iron and sulfur and you change out to a bladder style tank, you may start having smelly water.

1297

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: CSV pressure question

« on: March 22, 2013, 07:36:24 AM »

Actually 9 amps at 240V means a 1 HP submersible.  Pumping 7.5 GPM into the pressure tank means you either have a 5 GPM pump with a water level of about 100', or a 7 GPM pump with a water level of about 280'.  A 7 GPM pump would not build more backpressure than the pipe of CSV can handle, but the 5 GPM pump could build 250 PSI backpressure.  Without knowing for sure which pump it is, I am afraid there maybe too much pressure to use a CSV.  The only way to measure for sure is to put a guage before a ball valve, close the ball valve, and see how much pressure the pump can build.  If it is less than 200 PSI, the pipe can handle it.  More than 200 PSI would be too much for the pipe.

1298

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: CSV pressure question

« on: March 20, 2013, 07:32:34 AM »

Hi, Thanks for joining the forum.

I really doubt that you have "hose" attached to the pump at 400' deep.  Just the 400' depth would put 173 PSI on the hose at the bottom.  It would need to be Sch 80 PVC or at least 200# poly pipe, both of which can handle that pressure.

The pressure on the pipe before the CSV is determined by the pump, less the depth to the static water level.  If you don't have a control box or something with the motor horsepower written on it, there are other ways to determine the size of your pump.  The best way is to do a pump test.  You need to open a big valve or several faucets to let out enough water to lower the pressure below 20 PSI on your gauge.  While running the maximum amount of water the pump can produce, measure it in a bucket, or measure at each faucet and add them together for the total GPM of the pump.  While running this much water you need to put a clip around amp meter on one of the incoming electric lines.  The amperage will tell you the horsepower. 7 amps is 3/4 HP, 9 amps is a 1 HP, and 11.5 is a 1.5 HP.  Then the total GPM will tell you the model of the pump.  15 GPM at open flow says it is a 10 GPM impeller pump.  25 GPM would mean a 20 GPM pump, and so on.

Once you know the horsepower and GPM of the pump, you can look up the pump curve and determine the back pressure while pumping only 1 GPM.  You can subtract the static water level from this amount if you now it.  Or just figure total backpressure on the valve if you don't know the static. 

But you are on the right track, as backpressure is the one thing we need to now when adding a CSV.  The CSV itself can only handle about 175 PSI backpressure, so we really need to figure it as close as possible.

I would be glad to talk you through this test if you would like.  Just call if we can help.

I am guessing it is a 7 GPM pump, but we need to know the horsepower and static water level to figure the back pressure.
Thanks
Cary
800-652-0207

1299

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: tank on top

« on: March 11, 2013, 07:04:38 PM »

The tank will drain from any direction.  Could even easily unscrew the tank if you wanted.

1300

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Two homes, 1 well & pump, 1 pressure tank, pressure problems to second home

« on: February 25, 2013, 07:32:11 AM »

The Pside-Kick kit with the 4.5 gallon tank will run both houses.  You really don't need another tank at the second house, but it won't hurt anything to add another 4.5 gallon tank there if you want.

1301

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Required Pump Size with CSV

« on: February 22, 2013, 01:22:02 PM »

I would like to see that link please.

1302

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: CSV with home system with water softener and sediment filter?

« on: February 08, 2013, 06:01:19 PM »

Probably can't go higher than 50.

1303

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: CSV with home system with water softener and sediment filter?

« on: February 02, 2013, 08:46:47 PM »

Actually it needs to be installed before that line to the tank.  Right where the galv tee or the union is.  Here is a picture of a jet pump with a Pside-Kick.

1304

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: CSV with home system with water softener and sediment filter?

« on: February 02, 2013, 07:22:38 PM »

Getting rid of the big tank and switching to a Pside-Kick kit with the 4.5 gallon tank would be a good idea.  As you say, there is more pressure when the pump is on.  With the 4.5 gallon tank that only holds 1 gallon of water, the pump will be on the entire time you are in the shower, and the CSV will hold the pressure steady at 40, which will seem like much more pressure in the shower than 30/50 back and forth.  The Pside-Kick kit is $399.00.

You can see a 6 minute video of how to replace a big tank at this link.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jANyiSSWD9U

1305

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Required Pump Size with CSV

« on: January 22, 2013, 03:31:10 PM »

You should have metal pipe and fittings (brass or SS) between the Pside-Kick and the pump, unless you have the Pside-Kick mounted to the wall.  The “rumbling” of the water flowing through the pipe is enough to break PVC pipe, when you have something heavy on both sides of the PVC pipe or fittings.  You can use the wall mount kit and mount the Pside-Kick kit to the wall, then you can plumb with PVC between the pump and the CSV/tank.

The gauge will flicker a little as water “rumbles” past in the pipe.  But if you use the restrictive orifice as circled in the picture, it takes out a lot of the flickering.  You can also go up to 45/65 or so of you want to increase the run time a bit.