1291
Irrigation / Re: csv file
« on: January 08, 2013, 12:29:45 PM »
What file are you needing? I can probably email it to you.
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1292
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Help on Correct CSV for Well System
« on: January 01, 2013, 05:33:20 PM »
Yes the 1 GPM bypass is impossible to plug. The CSV always goes before the pressure tank/pressure switch or before any waterlines tee off. The pressure switch should always be very close to the pressure tank.
1293
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Help on Correct CSV for Well System
« on: January 01, 2013, 05:06:24 PM »
The check valve on the pump will keep flow from going backwards, so you shouldn't need anouther check valve. But I would install the chlorinator as far down line from the pressure tank as possible. Call us at 800-652-0207 and we will help you out. Happy New Year!
1294
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Help on Correct CSV for Well System
« on: January 01, 2013, 11:06:35 AM »
With that size pump and the iron content, the CSV1A is your best choice. And when the 32 gallon tank gives out, you can replace it with a 4.5 gallon size tank. We would sell you a CSV1A for $206 freight included.
1295
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Seems too good to be true
« on: December 31, 2012, 07:34:05 AM »
With 50/72 pressure switch setting you could turn up the CSV to 60. You would have more pressure in the house and the run time to fill the tank would be reduced to about 1 minute. Although if you are happy, there is nothing wrong with the settings you have. I am afraid your tank is bad and will need to be replaced. If so, you only need to go back with a 4.5 gallon size tank.
1296
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Seems too good to be true
« on: December 30, 2012, 04:18:23 PM »
If that is a 42 gallon tank it should hold about 10 gallons of water. So with the CSV at 50 and a 50/72 pressure switch it should be taking 10 minutes to fill the tank to 72. The fact that the tank already had 60 psi in it makes me think the bladder is busted. Check to see how much water you get out when draining the tank from 72 to 50, before the pump starts. 30 seconds of run time is ok, but I could get that much with a 4.5 gallon tank that holds only 1 gallon of water.
1297
Valve Tech / Re: snubber required?
« on: December 29, 2012, 09:33:13 AM »
You can get a little plastic button with a hole in it. These are cheap and can usually be found at the same places you purchase pressure switches. A Ray Roberts snubber is more expensive but will also work. Or we can get you a 1/4" MxF for about $10 if you want one from us.
1298
Valve Tech / Re: snubber required?
« on: December 27, 2012, 05:01:32 PM »
Our Pside-Kick kits that use the CSV1A valve come with a snubber. If you are attaching the pressure switch/guage to the side of the CSV1A valve you will need a snubber. There is a lot of turbulance in the valve in that location. But if you put the pressure switch downstream of the CSV1A on the pressure tank fittings, you won't need a snubber.
1299
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Winter freezing on lake water line
« on: December 27, 2012, 04:56:14 PM »
Yes you can. But you will need a good air vent/vac valve before the check valve at the pressure tank.
1300
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Seems too good to be true
« on: December 12, 2012, 07:23:42 AM »
The back pressure information is found on the pump curve. The 7GS05 can build a max of 300' of head. Subtract from that the static water level of 5', and the back pressure will be 295' of head which divided by 2.31 is 127 PSI. Alsmost any pipe will be rated for more than 127 PSI. And you should know that the burst pressure of most plastic pipe is 2 to 5 times the rated pressure. So 127 PSI back pressure is nothing and you will be fine using a CSV on that pump.
1301
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Water Hammer
« on: December 12, 2012, 07:18:16 AM »
That problem is nearly always caused by the aboove ground check valve. But this check valve should be on the "inlet" side of the pressure tank for any of this to make sense. If so, then yes you need to remove the above ground check valve. However, this check valve is probably masking the real problem, which is that your down hole check valve is leaking back. The down hole check may not leak back after you remove the above ground check which puts full pressure on the bottom check, and may make it seal better. If after removing the above ground check valve the pressure leaks off when you are not using any water, the bottom check will have to be replaced. But you won't know until you remove the above ground check and see what the pressure does.
1302
Pictures and Cad drawings of pump systems / Re: Low Yield Well, Cistern with sub pump
« on: December 10, 2012, 05:00:44 PM »
Or you can lay the sub on its side like this.
1303
Pictures and Cad drawings of pump systems / Low Yield Well, Cistern with sub pump
« on: December 10, 2012, 04:54:34 PM »
Low yield well with cistern and sub booster.
1304
Pictures and Cad drawings of pump systems / Low Yield Well, Cistern with jet pump
« on: December 10, 2012, 04:52:53 PM »
Low Yield Well, Cistern with jet pump
1305
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Residential Scenario: Will Cycle Stop Valve work for us
« on: December 10, 2012, 03:36:44 PM »
Here is the same thing with a jet pump for a booster.
