1306
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Residential Scenario: Will Cycle Stop Valve work for us
« on: December 10, 2012, 03:30:03 PM »
Trying one more time.
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1307
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Residential Scenario: Will Cycle Stop Valve work for us
« on: December 10, 2012, 10:05:51 AM »
Here are drawings of a system like that. One uses a jet pump for a booster and the other has a well submersible in the storage tank. Either way will work. I don't think you will need over the 40/60 pressure once you get a system that can produce the volume you need. But if you want the option of increasing the pressure, a submersible pump will be much better.
1308
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Seems too good to be true
« on: November 30, 2012, 08:42:24 AM »
The CSV1A or Pside-Kick kit will work with all the pumps in the following link at the particular depths listed. So I am sure it will fit your application. But if you have more specifics about the pump and well, we maybe able to use other CSV's as well.
http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/prod_psidekick_apps.html
http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/prod_psidekick_apps.html
1309
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Seems too good to be true
« on: November 29, 2012, 07:54:02 AM »
1 GPM is actually about 5 times more flow than needed to keep the pump and motor cool. And pumps like this are “counter intuitive” or work just the opposite of what you might think. It is actually harder on the pump/motor to produce high flow than low flow. Water weighs about 8.3 pounds per gallon. So at 1 GPM the pump is only lifting 8.3 pounds per minute, and at 10 GPM the pump is lifting 83 pounds per minute. The amp draw of the motor will drop by 30% to 40% when the flow is restricted to 1 GPM. The low amp draw makes the motor run cooler and work easier. (counter intuitive)
I recommended the CSV1A that comes with the Pside-Kick kit because it covers a wide rage of pumps and pressure, and you didn’t tell me anything about your pump. But we have other valves that may work as well. You just need to give me some info on the pump like horsepower, GPM, setting depth, and we can make sure you get the right valve.
No matter which CSV you use, it just needs to be installed prior to the pressure tank or any water lines that tee off the main line. Filters and other things won’t make any difference to the CSV.
I recommended the CSV1A that comes with the Pside-Kick kit because it covers a wide rage of pumps and pressure, and you didn’t tell me anything about your pump. But we have other valves that may work as well. You just need to give me some info on the pump like horsepower, GPM, setting depth, and we can make sure you get the right valve.
No matter which CSV you use, it just needs to be installed prior to the pressure tank or any water lines that tee off the main line. Filters and other things won’t make any difference to the CSV.
1310
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Seems too good to be true
« on: November 28, 2012, 08:53:25 AM »
Thanks for checking with us before you bought that big tank. You will be glad you did. In the past, the only way to help with the cycling problem was to use a larger pressure tank. But even a room full of tanks doesn’t stop the cycling, just slows it down a bit. The CSV will stop the cycling and let you use a very small tank. The CSV controls how much flow the pump is putting out, making it exactly match the amount being used at the time, so the water flows right past the tank, straight to the faucet. So the size of the tank is almost moot.
We use a 4.5 gallon tank in our Pside-Kick kits that comes with the CSV1A valve, pressure switch, gauge, pressure relief valve, pipe fittings, wall mount brackets, even a roll of Teflon tape for only $399.00. That is going to be much less than you can get a big tank for, and the CSV will do a better job than a half dozen big tanks. A 20 gallon tank only holds 5 gallons of water and a 80 gallon tank only holds 20 gallons of water. So you really can’t get a tank large enough to actually stop the cycling.
I know it sounds to good to be true, but it really is that simple. The CSV will stop the cycling, allow you to use a very small tank, and will hold the pressure steady instead of the 20 PSI up and down constantly the way you have now.
The plumber trying to sell you a larger tank is doing the same thing we would have told you about 20 years ago. The CSV was introduced in 1993, and we have never recommended a large tank since then. The plumbers and pump men don’t know about us because the pump suppliers and manufacturers are trying to keep us a secret. The CSV is what they consider a “disruptive product”. It makes pumps last longer, use smaller tanks, and eliminates a lot of other problems with pump systems. So if you make a living selling pumps and tanks, you don’t want your customers finding out about a CSV.
This is why you found us on the web page. We have spent 20 years advertising to the pump and plumbing professionals, and finally realized they are not going to tell their customers about something that will save so much money. So now you can find us on the Internet and educate yourself about what works best. You no longer need to rely only on the information you get from the installer. After all, the installer wants to sell you what makes him the most money, so even if he knows about Cycle Stop Valves, he probably won’t mention them to you.
We use a 4.5 gallon tank in our Pside-Kick kits that comes with the CSV1A valve, pressure switch, gauge, pressure relief valve, pipe fittings, wall mount brackets, even a roll of Teflon tape for only $399.00. That is going to be much less than you can get a big tank for, and the CSV will do a better job than a half dozen big tanks. A 20 gallon tank only holds 5 gallons of water and a 80 gallon tank only holds 20 gallons of water. So you really can’t get a tank large enough to actually stop the cycling.
I know it sounds to good to be true, but it really is that simple. The CSV will stop the cycling, allow you to use a very small tank, and will hold the pressure steady instead of the 20 PSI up and down constantly the way you have now.
The plumber trying to sell you a larger tank is doing the same thing we would have told you about 20 years ago. The CSV was introduced in 1993, and we have never recommended a large tank since then. The plumbers and pump men don’t know about us because the pump suppliers and manufacturers are trying to keep us a secret. The CSV is what they consider a “disruptive product”. It makes pumps last longer, use smaller tanks, and eliminates a lot of other problems with pump systems. So if you make a living selling pumps and tanks, you don’t want your customers finding out about a CSV.
This is why you found us on the web page. We have spent 20 years advertising to the pump and plumbing professionals, and finally realized they are not going to tell their customers about something that will save so much money. So now you can find us on the Internet and educate yourself about what works best. You no longer need to rely only on the information you get from the installer. After all, the installer wants to sell you what makes him the most money, so even if he knows about Cycle Stop Valves, he probably won’t mention them to you.
1311
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: CSV1a install - PRV necessecary?
« on: November 24, 2012, 06:26:09 PM »
The CSV1A can be mounted in any direction. A pressure relief is just for safety. It is nice to have but it will work without one.
1312
Industrial / Re: irrigation systems with centrifical pumps
« on: November 20, 2012, 01:00:33 PM »
The CSV doesn't do anything and acts like a piece of pipe until the water gets up to the set pressure of the CSV. So if you are turning on a self priming centrifugal with a timer, the pump will prime, the pressure will increase, and then the CSV will start working to control the pressure to the sprinklers.
1313
Valve Tech / Re: CSV1Z pressure adjustment
« on: November 15, 2012, 09:58:26 AM »
Glad you got it working. I actually like the cheap guages better than the liquid filled because you can see every flicker of the pressure. The liquid filled guages mask all the flickering so you can't really see what is going on. Also the guage is just to get things set up correctly, then it is really not needed. After a few years even the liquid filled guages plug up and stick. So years later when you need to do some trouble shooting, you nearly always have to replace the guage anyway. I have a 60 PSI CSV so my guage has been stuck at 60 PSI for years. If I notice any presure problems I will stick on an new guage. But then I would take it off and put it in a box on the shelf, so it will still be good if I ever need to check it again.
1314
Valve Tech / Re: CSV1Z pressure adjustment
« on: November 13, 2012, 10:33:38 AM »
Loosening the little adjustment screw all the way off will get you the lowest differential that switch can do. Probably about 15 to 17 PSI between on and off.
A hole or split in the pipe down the well is the best answer for why the pump won't run more than 50 PSI. At that depth and pressure, that pump should deliver 16 GPM at 60 PSI. If you have a check valve up top, remove it. Then if the pressure drops when no water is being used, you have a hole in the pipe.
A hole or split in the pipe down the well is the best answer for why the pump won't run more than 50 PSI. At that depth and pressure, that pump should deliver 16 GPM at 60 PSI. If you have a check valve up top, remove it. Then if the pressure drops when no water is being used, you have a hole in the pipe.
1315
Valve Tech / Re: CSV1Z pressure adjustment
« on: November 13, 2012, 08:54:31 AM »
Something isn't right. Tightning the bolt down until it touches the spacer means the CSV is set at about 90 PSI. You only need to remove the spacer if you want to set the CSV higher than 90. You have to adjust the CSV when "drawing" no more than 3 GPM. If you are just opening up a big valve, the pressure will drop off because you are using more than the pump can produce.
To adjust the pressure switch to 60/70, you will need a pressure switch that can do that. The standard FSG2 switch will have about 15 to 17 PSI as minimum bandwidth. We have an electronic pressure switch (EPS15/99) that will go to a 10 PSI spread, or you can use something like an Allen Bradley model AB836C7A, but you will need a relay.
Call me while you are adjusting the valve and I will talk you through it. 800-652-0207
Cary
To adjust the pressure switch to 60/70, you will need a pressure switch that can do that. The standard FSG2 switch will have about 15 to 17 PSI as minimum bandwidth. We have an electronic pressure switch (EPS15/99) that will go to a 10 PSI spread, or you can use something like an Allen Bradley model AB836C7A, but you will need a relay.
Call me while you are adjusting the valve and I will talk you through it. 800-652-0207
Cary
1316
Irrigation / Re: Surface gravity irrigation well size
« on: November 08, 2012, 08:34:05 AM »
To get 100 gPM from 160' deep, you will need a 7.5 HP pump. It takes a fairly large generator to run this size pump but, it can be done.
1317
Valve Tech / Re: Low pressure
« on: November 05, 2012, 07:13:27 AM »
You might turn the pressure switch up about 5 PSI to keep it from shutting off when the heat pump runs.
1318
Valve Tech / Re: Low pressure
« on: November 04, 2012, 07:36:50 AM »
It is very rare for the adjustment screw to loosen on its own. There is even a little Allen screw for locking it in place. It is hard to tell the setting without a little trial and error, but start with the adjusment screw flush with the top of the valve and see what pressure it holds.
1319
Valve Tech / Re: Leakage
« on: November 04, 2012, 07:34:25 AM »
NO the 1A does not leak. It can be installed anywhere and in any configuration. Yes you can use a pressure relief valve and a 1/2" one will fit on the side of the CSV1A itself.
1320
Valve Tech / Re: Low pressure
« on: October 31, 2012, 07:47:59 AM »
I will keep an eye on this thread over the weekend so post any questions you may have.