Messages

1336

Valve Tech / Re: Cleaning a weeping CSV1?

« on: August 16, 2012, 07:14:19 AM »

The CSV1Z has been replaced with the CSV1A.  But no, this valve will not drip on the floor.  It has more friction loss and doesn't hold as constant a pressure as the plastic valves, but that is rarely noticed by anyone but me.  I have a CSV160 that is 16 years old and has been dripping for 14 years and still works good.  I just have it installed in the well so the drip is never noticed.  The only way I know it is dripping is because I pulled it up to look at it.

You won't notice friction loss from the CSV1A or any of our valves unless yo try to use every gallon that the pump can produce.  If you never use the maximum flow from the pump, you will never see the friction loss.

1337

Irrigation / Re: I'm tired of replacing my AquaBoost pumps & controllers!

« on: August 15, 2012, 08:50:03 AM »

Hi memse
I am so sorry that you have been taken in by the Variable Speed Pump (VFD) scam.  The VFD is designed to separate the consumer from as much of their money as possible.  The way the pump manufacturer is looking at this is that they already have more of your money than they would have gotten with a conventional pump system in 30 years time.  So they really don’t care that you are mad, or if you switch brands of pumps.

With a booster pump that produces such low pressure, you really don’t need anything to vary the flow rate for the different size zones.  The VFD would only allow the pump to be slowed down by 13% (almost no variation), and still produce the 40 PSI you need.  And a pump that only builds a maximum of 52 PSI, really doesn’t need a CSV either.

Requiring a three phase motor to work with the VFD, is one way they try to lock you into continually repairing this system instead of being able to use something different, as you could if you had a single phase motor.

I hate to recommend any Goulds pump since they already have a lot of your money.  But they have a pump model GT15 that I find on the Internet for about $350 that would work very well.  But if you want to stay away from "that" company, you could use a Sta-Rite model DS3HF which I find for about the same $350.  Of course Sta-Rite does the same thing with VFD’s as well, just that they haven’t had the chance to fleece you yet.

Since these pumps are single phase, all you need is a $25 pressure switch to control them.  Set the pressure switch at 32/52.  Then you will have 37 GPM at 40 PSI, the same as with the pump you have now.  You can also run as little as about 7 GPM without the pump shutting off (cycling on and off).  But you will need a little 20 gallon size pressure tank, which I can find on the Internet for about $120.

So I am guessing you spent $1500 on the original installation, and I added up another $2115 that you have spent since then.  This is after you got one controller warranted at no charge.  This adds up to about $3615 that you have spent so far.

The pump I am recommending will cost $350.  A pressure switch and pressure tank will cost another $150.  This is a total of $500 cost, for something that should last 30 years without maintenance.  This makes it easy to see why pump manufacturers are pushing Variable Speed Pumps the way they do.

To get you hooked they will tell you that the “soft start” from a VFD will make the pump last longer, and varying the speed saves energy.  Both of these things are false, as you have discovered.  You have basically just given them an extra $3100. Sorry! Let me know if you have more questions.
Cary

1338

Valve Tech / Re: Cleaning a weeping CSV1?

« on: August 14, 2012, 07:31:44 AM »

 There is probably something abrasive or slimy in the water, which caused the CSV to weep.  There is a tube that slides through an o-ring about half way down the red half where the water is coming from.  Replacing the o-ring may help for a while, but the tube is gouged out and will probably still weep.  Weeping doesn’t stop the valve from working.  You just need to install the valve in a place where the drip won’t hurt anything.  We make a coupling that allows the CSV1 to be in the well casing, or it can be out in a valve box, or just outside like they do in Florida.

1339

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: csvalves

« on: August 06, 2012, 07:25:19 PM »

Yes at 40 PSI that pump will deliver 20 GPM.  But as the pressure increases, the GPM decreases.  At 50 PSI that pump only does about 2.5 GPM.  So as long as you are using more than 2.5 GPM, it will never reach 50 PSI so the switch can shut it off.  Not shutting off is a good thing.  So you can basically vary the flow you are using from 2.5 GPM to 20 GPM, and the pump will not cycle on and off.  This is similar to what the CSV does for larger pumps.  I think that pump will deadhead or (not be pumping any water) at about 55 PSI.  That is such low pressure that if your carful with the pressure switch adjustment, you can keep it from cycling on and off at low flow.  You can’t do that with a pump that builds 75 or 150 PSI.

There are drawbacks to running a pump that close to its deadhead pressure.  If the water level drops or the pump wears just a percent or two, the pump won’t be able to reach a pressure switch setting of say 53 PSI, and it will melt down from the heat.  But you don’t have much choice with that pump unless you want to run at much lower pressure.  We can do a 35 PSI Cycle Stop Valve with a 20/40 pressure switch setting and your pump would be safe at any flow rate down to 1 GPM, but that will decrease your operating pressure to 30 to 35 PSI instead of 40.  This is because with a CSV, we don’t want to run the pressure switch as close as 1 or 2 PSI from max or shutoff pressure, which you really shouldn’t anyway, but a lot of people get away with it.

1340

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: csvalves

« on: August 06, 2012, 11:43:28 AM »

The pictures I see show that pump with a pressure switch already attached.  You just need to add a small pressure tank to a tee on the line leaving the pump.

1341

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: csvalves

« on: August 06, 2012, 09:48:31 AM »

Hi mouse
After looking at the curve for that pump, I don't think it builds enough preesure to be able to utilize or even need a CSV.  It looks like that pump will barely be able to build the 50 PSI to shut itself off.  It will probably only be pumping 1 or 2 GPM before it gets to 50 PSI, which is as good as a CSV would do.  Your gonna have to run at 30 or 40 PSI to get any amount of flow from that pump.  But if you run only 2 or 3 GPM, and it should not be able to get to 50 to shut off.  If it shuts off while running 2 GPM, you can probably turn up the pressure switch to shut off the pump at 52 or so, and it will stay running at 2 GPM.  I would love to sell you a CSV, but you don't have enough pump to need one.

1342

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: First CSV installation

« on: July 27, 2012, 07:34:31 AM »

Yes we can get you whatever parts you need.  And since the plugs were not included in the box as they should have been, we will send you either the plugs or the SS fittings and pressure relief valve at no cost.  Just call us with your address and inform whomever answers of what I just said. 

1343

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: First CSV installation

« on: July 26, 2012, 03:27:45 PM »

Soryy there were no plugs in the box.  We try hard but sometimes we just miss something.  Call me with your address and I will send you some if you don't end up using the ports for the pressure switch and pressure relief valve.

1344

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: First CSV installation

« on: July 26, 2012, 12:24:52 PM »

There should have been three sch 40 plugs in the box with the CSV1A.  Let me know if they were not there and I can send you some more.  All you need is a 1/2X1/4 bushing to use the extra port for the pressure switch, and a 1/2" pressure relief will fit in the other side.  The 3/4" port in the bottom is for the pressure tank.  We usually use the 4.5 gallon size tank that is 3/4" and will fit right in that spot.  But you can use a 3/4 nipple and a 1X3/4 bushing to attach the 1" tank you have now.  You can see how all that fits in the instructions for our Pside-kick kit that comes with all those things. 

See this link;  http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/pdf/install_pk1a.pdf
 Let me know if you have more questions.

1345

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: CSV retrofit questions

« on: July 25, 2012, 03:04:24 PM »

I would be glad to help you size a new pump.  Just let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks

1346

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: CSV retrofit questions

« on: July 25, 2012, 12:39:32 PM »

A 10 GPM, 1/2 HP pump can only reach 60 PSI if the water level in the well is less than 70' deep.  You may not be able to turn it up to 40/60.  You really need a 3/4 HP so you could turn the pressure up as much as you want.  I run 50/70 so I have good pressure upstairs, and I don't have a filter or anything else for restriction.

It takes a certain amount of flow rate to make an aerator work.  So with a 40/60 pressure switch, you need to set the CSV1A at 55 PSI.  That way you have enough flow to make the aerator work until the pressure gets to 55 and the CSV starts working.

I would put the CSV1A before the aerator to keep the aerator from seeing high pressure.  The CSV can give you as much pressure as you want, you just need a large enough pump to build that kind of pressure.

1347

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: PK1A PSIDE-KICK water pressure

« on: July 25, 2012, 07:14:31 AM »

Yes.  Turn the large adjustment in the pressure switch about 2 full turns to the right.  You have 38# of air in the tank so the pump needs to come on before the pressure gets to 38, and you won't see it drop to 20 anymore.  If it goes higher than 60# to shut off, that is OK, it just gives a little more run time.

1348

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Pside-Kick is a Great Product

« on: July 24, 2012, 11:44:31 AM »

It is things like this that make us say, "our customers are our best salespeople".  Thanks so much for the good reference.  Most people never come back to say how good it is working, because it is working really well so they never think about their water system again.

I think I am going to make a forum just for references and move this thread to the top of that list.  Now I just have to figure out how to do that.

1349

Irrigation / Re: Golf Course irrigation

« on: July 23, 2012, 07:42:48 AM »

How many of those 50 GPM heads will you be running at the same time?

1350

Irrigation / Re: Golf Course irrigation

« on: July 22, 2012, 03:10:11 PM »

At the bottom of a 100’ of elevation change, you will pick up about 40 PSI.  Most golf course type sprinkler heads require 80 to 100 PSI.  If this is the case you will need a pump that can produce at least 60 PSI.  Those golf course type heads usually put out about 50 GPM each.  So a 2,000 GPM pump will run 40 of them at one time.  Sounds like a lot to me.  I have seen some pretty large golf courses get by with 1,000 to 1,200 GPM.

The right 30 HP pump can produce about 1,000 GPM at 40 PSI.  This would give you 1,000 GPM at 80 PSI at the bottom of the hill.  But it would only give you 40 PSI for the holes at the top of the hill.  So you would either need lower pressure heads, spaced closer together at the top of the hill, or a pump than will deliver more pressure.

You could also do a 60 HP pump that will give you 1,000 GPM at 80 PSI.  Then you will have 80 PSI at the top of the hill and 120 PSI at the bottom.  You could also use a pressure reducing valve to decrease the pressure going down hill if you wanted, so you would have 80 at the top as well as 80 at the bottom.

A CSV will make a 30 HP or a 60 HP pump supply all the water you want, or just a single quick connector by itself without hurting anything.  And if you pick a good pump, the amps will drop by 50% when just running a quick connector by itself.  However, a 3 HP or 5 HP jockey pump is always a good thing for a golf course.  This takes a lot of wear and tear off the larger pump, and saves energy when using quick connectors or just keeping up with leaks.  If you use a 5 HP jockey, you can actually decrease the HP of the big pump by 5 HP as well.  It is easy to make the two pumps work together, even if they are not close to each other, by simply staggering the pressure settings.

We can make this work anyway you want and would be glad to help you.  You should probably call me to discuss this, because believe it or not, pumping “downhill” will be your biggest hurdle.   When you turn on sprinklers at the bottom of the hill, it takes a while before the pumps see a decrease in pressure.  It is kind of like pulling the slack out of a tow chain.  When the slack is gone, the pumps have to play catch up, but not over do it.

Then when you have the sprinklers working and water running down hill, the water doesn’t want to stop coming downhill when you turn off the sprinklers.  You have to make allowance for these things when pumping downhill, so you don’t blow up your pipe and fittings.

I would be glad to help you with these things and can help you pick the right pump(s).
Thanks
Cary
800-652-0207