Messages

1336

Valve Tech / Re: CSV1Z pressure adjustment

« on: November 13, 2012, 08:54:31 AM »

Something isn't right.  Tightning the bolt down until it touches the spacer means the CSV is set at about 90 PSI.  You only need to remove the spacer if you want to set the CSV higher than 90.  You have to adjust the CSV when "drawing" no more than 3 GPM.  If you are just opening up a big valve, the pressure will drop off because you are using more than the pump can produce.

To adjust the pressure switch to 60/70, you will need a pressure switch that can do that. The standard FSG2 switch will have about 15 to 17 PSI as minimum bandwidth.  We have an electronic pressure switch (EPS15/99) that will go to a 10 PSI spread, or you can use something like an Allen Bradley model AB836C7A, but you will need a relay.

Call me while you are adjusting the valve and I will talk you through it.  800-652-0207
Cary

1337

Irrigation / Re: Surface gravity irrigation well size

« on: November 08, 2012, 08:34:05 AM »

To get 100 gPM from 160' deep, you will need a 7.5 HP pump.  It takes a fairly large generator to run this size pump but, it can be done.

1338

Valve Tech / Re: Low pressure

« on: November 05, 2012, 07:13:27 AM »

You might turn the pressure switch up about 5 PSI to keep it from shutting off when the heat pump runs.

1339

Valve Tech / Re: Low pressure

« on: November 04, 2012, 07:36:50 AM »

It is very rare for the adjustment screw to loosen on its own.  There is even a little Allen screw for locking it in place.  It is hard to tell the setting without a little trial and error, but start with the adjusment screw flush with the top of the valve and see what pressure it holds.

1340

Valve Tech / Re: Leakage

« on: November 04, 2012, 07:34:25 AM »

NO the 1A does not leak.  It can be installed anywhere and in any configuration.  Yes you can use a pressure relief valve and a 1/2" one will fit on the side of the CSV1A itself.

1341

Valve Tech / Re: Low pressure

« on: October 31, 2012, 07:47:59 AM »

I will keep an eye on this thread over the weekend so post any questions you may have.

1342

Valve Tech / Re: Low pressure

« on: October 30, 2012, 07:55:28 AM »

Well then it is just a process of elimination.  You could pull up the pump and check the screen.  Or you could remove the CSV and see if you still have low presure.  If the well has plenty of water, either the pump is not producing as much as it should or something is restricted.

1343

Valve Tech / Re: Low pressure

« on: October 28, 2012, 06:28:49 PM »

If the valve is not submerged, then something could be restricted.  Also if the valve is 5' below the pitless and the water is 15' deeper than that, there can't be much standing water in a 35' well?

1344

Valve Tech / Re: Low pressure

« on: October 28, 2012, 02:45:00 PM »

With a well that shallow, the CSV could be submerged under water.  If the cap and o-ring did not get installed or did not seal, the spring cage maybe full of water and rusting the spring.  If the spring cage is full of water or if the spring rust and gets weak, the running pressure will be reduced.  I like the CSV150 better for submerged applications as the spring is SS and the spring cage can stay full of water and work just fine.  Just need to drill a small vent hole so it can vent water instead of air.

If the valve is not submerged I don't know what could make it do that.

1345

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Better showers and sprinklers

« on: October 09, 2012, 10:09:34 AM »

Begging the pardon of you curling friends who DON’T get your water from a well, I thought I would pass along some info on a great device I recently discovered, and have just now installed in my water system.

It started when I was concerned about the strain on our pump from the frequent cycling (1 minute on / 1 minute off when we had 2 or 3 lawn sprinklers going at once (same problem with ANY high water flow requirement).  My on-line research came up with a relatively new device (certainly to ME) called a Cycle Stop Valve (CSV) .  What it does is keep the pump running at a constant pressure (adjustable to say 50 or 55 PSI) as long as the water demand is present.  That gives much better sprinkler (or shower) performance and prevents the strain on the pump and lines from excessive start/stops.

Here is the link to an illustration of how it works and the manufacturing company.   http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/simple/home.php 

I (with no great plumbing skills) got it installed within an hour. (see attached pic)  I was initially confused (actually just too impatient) with the adjustment procedure but a support guy from the company walked me through it (very patiently  J ) over the phone!

I just thought I’d pass this along FYI…..hoping some of you would find it useful.

See (some of) you at the golf tournament next week!

Cheers, Barry

1346

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: simple install question

« on: September 25, 2012, 08:52:19 AM »

I don't know why you can't see the picture.  It shows up for me.  Anyway try the link below.



Yes you need a check valve either on the suction side or before the CSV.

1347

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: simple install question

« on: September 25, 2012, 07:43:00 AM »

You can either move the pressure switch after the CSV as in the picture, or you can just extend the sensing line from the pressure switch and attach it after the CSV.  But either way yes, the pressure switch has to be after the CSV.

1348

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: simple install question

« on: September 24, 2012, 02:40:26 PM »

If you don't already have an air charge system coming off the jet pump to the tank, there won't be any difference in adding the CSV.  In other words yes, you still need to drain the tank ocasionally to add air.  The CSV goes between the pump and the pressure tank/pressure switch.  a 4.5 gallon bladder tank is all you need if you decide to change the tank.

1349

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: CSV with VFD

« on: September 14, 2012, 09:54:32 AM »

With the 1 PSI differential pressure switch that comes with the Monodrive, we can’t let the pressure drop and use the water out of the tank before the pump starts.  But once it starts, the CSV will pull it down and keep it at 50, and not let it build to 60 and shut off as long as you are using water.  The 40/60 pressure switch would be much better.

However, you don’t need the Mono Drive for a soft start.  The CSV will do that for you.  We have learned that starting a pump against a CSV gives the same reduced amp start as when varying the motor speed.  Starting a pump against a CSV is like starting an unloaded motor.  Sometimes it even starts with fewer amps than when using a VFD.

Also ramping up the speed of a submersible is much harder on the thrust bearing than letting it start at full speed.  Any rotation below 30hz or half of full speed will not lubricate the thrust bearing and will grind it off.  It takes 30hz or half of full speed to get the hydroplane effect needed to make a Kingbury type thrust bearing work like it should.

1350

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Need Help

« on: September 14, 2012, 09:38:02 AM »

The pressure switch is the little grey or black box screwed to the pipe on the pressure tank.  It will have some wires coming out of it.  There are two adjustment screws in the switch.  Don't mess with the small adjustment screw.  Just tighten down on the large adjustment screw about three full turns.  Turn the power off first, the adjustment screw is very close to the hot wires.