Messages

1351

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: PK1A PSIDE-KICK water pressure

« on: July 22, 2012, 02:25:27 PM »

Those two screws in the pressure switch only effect the pumps on and off settings.  The adjustment on the CSV determines the pressure when using water.  You want the pressure switch to turn the pump on at about 40 and off at about 60 PSI.  Then while running something small like a kitchen sink or a single shower, you adjust the CSV to hold 50 PSI steady.

Tip;  The small screw in the pressure switch should be almost all the way loosened out, (counterclockwise).   Try this before making any other adjustments.

1352

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: water hammer

« on: July 10, 2012, 09:00:17 AM »

I am glad you got it working.  After talking to you and finding out you had threaded PVC couplings, I was afraid that would be the problem.  Metal couplings are much better than plastic ones when using threaded sch 80 PVC pipe.

1353

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: water hammer

« on: July 09, 2012, 04:28:17 PM »

If the pump comes back on when no water faucets are open, water is going somewhere.  It is probably going down the well to a bad check at the pump or a hole in the drop pipe.  See if water is going back down the pipe in the well.  If it is, that has to be fixed before your problem will go away.

1354

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: water hammer

« on: July 09, 2012, 10:48:18 AM »

All submersibles should have a check valve either built in or attached directly to the pump.  This is the only check valve needed.  You can remove any above ground check valves, which will stop water hammer on pump start.  If the check valve on the submersible is bad, when the pump shuts off, it will come right back on even though no one is using water.  If that happens the check valve in the well will need to be fixed or replaced.

1355

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: water hammer

« on: July 09, 2012, 07:50:00 AM »

The extra check valves will cause water hammer at pump start or pump stop.  You must have a check valve on the pump itself, and that is the only check valve you need.  But if the water hammer is happening when you "open up to full flow" then you probably have too much air in the pressure tank.  You need to change the pressure switch setting to 30/50, and make sure you have no more than 25 PSI air charge in the tank.

1356

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Looking to installe CSV

« on: July 02, 2012, 11:53:47 AM »

Yes the pressure will be higher between the CSV and pump than after the CSV.

1357

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: 1989 system update

« on: July 02, 2012, 11:52:00 AM »

The CSV1-50 will work fine.  With that size tank you will get 2 to 3 minutes of run time with a standard 40/60 pressure switch.  It is the larger tanks where the CSV needs to be 5 PSI less than the pressure switch cut out.

1358

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Looking to installe CSV

« on: July 01, 2012, 08:14:59 PM »

Yeah those three things will put out more water than your pump can produce and the pressure will fall off.  The pressure before the CSV depends on the pump and the water level in the well.  If the water level is high, like at the surface, that pump can build 225 PSI.  If the water level is at 200', then you will only see 138 PSI before the CSV.  Either way you want the chlorinator, filters, and any water outlets after the CSV, and they will only see the 40/60 pressure.

1359

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Looking to installe CSV

« on: July 01, 2012, 07:00:14 PM »

You only have a 7 GPM pump.  At that depth and pressure, that pump should be able to keep the pressure up to 60 PSI, as long as you are using less than 6 GPM.  At 6 GPM, the pressure from the CSV1A should only be 3 PSI lower than when running 2 GPM, which is still 57 PSI. You can see the 3 PSI loss in the "Reduced Pressure Fall-off" chart at this link.

http://cyclestopvalves.com/prod_csv1a_specs.html

Any pressure lower than 57 PSI, is because that is all the water your pump can supply.

If you ever have to replace the pump, you could go with a larger pump.  That CSV1A is good to 25 GPM.  Even if your well can't produce more than 7 GPM for long periods of time, it probably can for short periods of time.  Then the CSV can make it work like a 7 GPM pump again when you need to use water for a long preiod of time.  You simply open only 7 GPM from the faucets, and the CSV can make a 25 GPM pump work fine at 7 or less GPM.

1360

Irrigation / Re: vibration at running pressure

« on: June 27, 2012, 11:59:57 AM »

If it is a 2" or larger valve, there maybe air in the top chamber.  You can loosen the top plug to let the air out.  Air in the mainline will cause a slower pulsing, not really a vibration.

1361

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: My Well Is Killing Me

« on: June 27, 2012, 11:58:13 AM »

Yes you can usually just back off on the chlorinator to match the average flow.  May take a litttle trial and error to get it like you want.  The CSV1A is all Stainless Steel so it works fine with chlorine.

1362

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: My Well Is Killing Me

« on: June 26, 2012, 03:45:17 PM »

I use a 40/60 switch turned up to 55/75 at my house.  But that is about as far as you can go before you completely compress the spring.  Just tighten the big adjustment nut down about five full turns to get it as high as you can.  Don't mess with the little adjustment nut.

The CSV can completly clog up with iron the same way a check valve or even the pipe will do.  But the CSV1A can be easily disassembled and cleaned or chisled out if needed.  There is even a replaceable gut pack available.

1363

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: My Well Is Killing Me

« on: June 26, 2012, 12:44:49 PM »

Hi DF
With that pump and the depth of well you have, you should be able to turn the pressure up as high as you want.  If 70 PSI is what you want, then you need to run the pressure switch at 60/80.  The switch you have can be turned up to about 55/75 at most, which maybe all you need.  Of course upping the pressure makes the pump cycle worse, so a CSV would be a good idea.  A CSV1A will set up as high as you want, and with a 55/75 switch and a large tank, you want the CSV to be set at about 70 PSI.  Which means after the tank is empty and the pump starts, the CSV will hold 70 PSI steady, even if you were in the shower for a month or a year.  And yes it is better for the pump to stay on than to cycle.  It will even be much stronger pressure with the CSV than if the pump is cycling.

We also cound not make the Amtrol switch last very long.  So we designed our own digital pressure switch called the EPS15/99.  Your old switch will work however, and the CSV maybe all you need.

1364

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Looking to installe CSV

« on: June 26, 2012, 10:39:08 AM »

Just make sure the pump runs and the pressure holds steady while running something small like a shower.  Then make sure it doesn't take more than three minutes to fill the tank after you turn off all the water.  If it does that you don't need me.  If it doesn't call or click here and I will be glad to help.

1365

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Looking to installe CSV

« on: June 26, 2012, 10:27:24 AM »

The big tank is not an issue.  Just need to set the CSV close to the pressure switch off setting so it doens't take more tan 3 minutes to fill the tank after all water has been turned off.