CSV1A not keeping constant pressure

[apdarby]

I just installed a new csv1a and I am having an issue with it keeping constant pressure.

I have a submersible pump the well depth is approx 180 feet.
The pressure tank is 120 gallons and glass lined.

I have the csv1a coming first then a sniffer valve, then a pressure switch  set to 40-60. There is a pressure gauge on the tank and a shut off valve and hose outlet bib on the bottom of the tank on the bottom opposite side.

When I turn on the water at the hose bib the csv keeps constant pressure where I want it. However turning on any faucets or hose bib further down the line causes it to decrease the pressure about 4 psi. If I close the hose bib at the well tank It increases the PSI to 60 and the well pump shuts off and cycles down to 40 and starts up again so it's like the CSV isn't even there.

Anybody have any ideas why this is happening?

Thanks

[Cary Austin]

If the pump cycles off while using any hose bibb after the CSV, then the CSV is set too high.  It is hard to tell where a CSV is set with a 120 gallon tank.  Using a 40/60 switch you would need the CSV set to hold about 57 PSI while running about 3 GPM from a hose bibb.  If the pressure creeps on up to 60 and the pump shuts off, the CSV is set too high.  You just have to watch it for a while to make sure the pressure doesn't slowly creep up from 57 to 60 and shut the pump off.

[apdarby]

I was told by the company that replaced my tank and pump a few years back that the CSV's don't work well with my system because it has a pressure tank and the system stays under constant pressure. He said they tried modifying the CSV's to get them to work but didn't have any luck with them. He said they work well with tanks that have a bladder but mine doesn't.
Also while trying again today to adjust the CSV my pressure relief valve on on the side of the well head started to leak so now I get to replace that.

[Cary Austin]

As long as you have a brass, not rubber bleeder orifice, the CSV1A works fine with a hydro tank.  The air charge will pass right through the CSV.  The only difference is the pump doesn't cycle as much, so it doesn't get as much air charge from the bleeder that is 5' down the well.  If you cannot maintain enough air, moving the bleeder to 10' below surface will put twice as much air in the tank with each cycle.  But it is usually cycling that causes the air to get lost from the pressure tank to start with, so with the CSV eliminating the cycling, not as much air needs to be added in the first place.  Most people do not need to lower their bleeder orifice. 

You also do not need to replace the pop off valve.  The fact that it is popping off tells me you have finally loosened the adjustment bolt on the CSV enough to make it start working.  You will always have higher pressure on the inlet side of the CSV, which is why the pressure relief valve needs to be after the CSV, not before.  But if you have a rubber bleeder, it will pop out when the CSV starts working and the pressure on the inlet pipes gets above 75 PSI.

There are a couple things more to consider when using a CSV on a hydro tank than on a bladder tank, but they work very well.  Your pump guys should have called me when they couldn't figure it out.  Usually they don't want it to work as pump cycling gives them a lot more business.   

[apdarby]

This is my pressure relief valve it is located on the opposite end of the tee where the water comes out of the well.

[Cary Austin]

That is very common.  But the pressure relief must be moved to some place after the CSV.  Right now it maybe what is keeping the rubber bleeder down the well from popping out.  If you have a brass bleeder down the well, just move the pressure relief and we can make this work.  There are even three extra ports on the CSV1A, which any of can be used for the pressure relief valve.

If your pump guys didn't know to move the pressure relief valve then they had no idea how the CSV works, which is also very common.