Going to bite the bullet, drill a new well & use CSV.

[Zoomschwortz]

After years of living with an old 1.25gpm well I will be having a new well drilled in a few weeks.
I want to have things like Poly Pipe, Fittings, CSV, Pitless on hand before the trenches are dug and a rough idea of submersible pump size, which will be fine tuned once I know actual depth, gpm, static level and such.

A) New wells in the area range in depth of 100"-130' and GPM in the 20's with an exception for my neighbor that has 110 GPM and 116' deep.
Static level varies from 45'-65'.

B) Ground is fairly level with shower head 10'-11' above area that well will be drilled.

C) Distance from well to tank/filter house is 90' and from tank/filter house to home 105' and from tank/filter house to last of 3 hydrants 300'. Only 1 hydrant will be used at a time, but house will always be used.

D) Well casing will be 6" steel.

E) Goal is at least 20 GPM (if well can produce this amount)

F) 40/60 psi switch

G) Shop that will supply electricity has unused 240v, double pole 60 amp breaker.

Added notes: old Sears and Roebuck diaphragm tank from the 70's died late August and was replaced with new Well-X-Trol, WX-302, 86 gallon tank last month.
Old shallow well has iron & PH issues and filters to reduce these problems, but neighbors with 100' and deeper wells have none of these issues and have no filters.

Questions.
1) Using a worst case scenario of 130' well and 65' static water level, will 1 1/4" Black Poly pipe be large enough to allow 20+ GPM?

2) Will 160 psi Poly Pipe be strong enough or should I jump to 200 psi? (If 160 psi is close to the limit, I would prefer to error on the greater psi than have problems in the future.

3) Do you have a rough estimate of pump size I will need?

4) Which CSV should I be using and what psi? Currently when pressure tank is full at 60 psi, showers are great and 50 psi is good, but 40 psi when pump kicks on is not so good.

5) Would a 50/70 psi switch work better for me and then have CSV keep me at 60 psi?

6) What gauge wire/cable will be needed in well case and from well case 90' to breaker panel in tank/filter house?

Thank you in advance for any help, suggestions or advice that you can offer.
Ken

[Cary Austin]

Hello,

It is hard to get a rough estimate on a new pump. Once you get the well finalized and figure the pumping and static levels then I can be of more help with the choosing. They should also give you at least 2 quote options. The pumps chosen are usually properly sized for the well depth, recharge rate, and work at a 60psi max flow rate if you ask for it. (most will size pumps at 50psi unless you ask for more)

Once we know what max flow and horsepower then we can figure the size of wire, pipe, and the pipe pressure ratings.

Will there be any water demands in the first 90ft from well head to the tank/filter?

Sorry for the delay in response...

CSV

[Zoomschwortz]

Thank you Cary.

No water demands before the tank/filter and hoping that the water will be clean and nothing other than a UV will be needed.

Thanks again
Ken

[Zoomschwortz]

I have questions about the CSVS125-1.
I like the idea of having it in the well casing, attached to the Pitless

In this scenario, if I am wanting 60 psi in the house, I assume that the  CSVS125-1 would need to be set at 60 psi.

1) Would the switch, 90 feet away in the tank/filter house be a 40/60 lb switch?

2) If I have 60 psi entering the tank/filter house, wouldn't the pressure tank also be getting filled with 60 psi water at the same time 60 psi water is going to my home?

Thanks again for your help
Ken

[Cary Austin]

The CSV125 60psi is set to hold about 66psi on purpose. When you put it in the well and fight some gravity you still see north of 60psi at the surface. Optimal pressure switch would be 50/70.

Unless that 90ft is uphill too then 50/70 would be what you use.

The pressure tank (precharge 48psi) is filled from 50-70 to full drawdown every time the pump cycles. So a 60psi CSV is wide open and self flushes from 50-60psi and half of the tank fills at full pump rate. Then the CSV125 holds 60psi or so for you during the water demand. The last half of the tank is filled from 60-70 when you shut off demand like normal. It just does the tank fill slow so we like to use a smaller tank to make the shutoff happen within a minute or two. Otherwise we adjust the pressure switch so that it turns off after a minute or two no matter what pressure that happens to be.

Hope I am helping...

[Zoomschwortz]

Thank you Cary, you are indeed helping.

Once the water gets to 2ft below ground level (because of Pitless adapter) it is about 14 ft up to the shower head. All faucets, hydrants, toilets, shower heads and sinks will be 6-14ft above the Pitless.

The more I think about it and the more I look at options, the more I am leaning away from the idea of using my weeks old, Well-X-Trol 86 gallon WX-302 and going with a 60psi PSIDE kick after the well is drilled. It looks to me that the PSIDE Kick is a well thought out, fire and forget package that will meet my needs and goals. I just need to wait about 3 weeks and then I will know the specifics of depth, static, gpm, pump size, etc. Hoping for the 20+ gpm of clean unfiltered water that the neighbors have, so I can eliminate the flow reducing filter system that I now have.

A remedy for a different subject that is often brought up on this site:
I used to have 2 large bladder tanks for "emergency water in case of power failure and as often mentioned, it was a lottery of how many gallons of water I actually had when the lights went out.
It seems to me that an un-powered water heater or just a plain old fashioned, non bladder water tank that is rated for 100psi or more, located after a CSV would be the perfect solution for emergency water source.
Power goes out, you have a guaranteed amount of fresh water and no more reduction of water flow than a water heater would have.
In the space of an 86 gallon bladder tank, that might have 1 to 20 gallons of water, a person could easily have 86 guaranteed gallons of fresh water.

Thank you for your help
Ken