Messages

1

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Pump to T that branches to pressure tank and outlets

« on: April 12, 2017, 04:45:36 PM »

Thank you!

2

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Pump to T that branches to pressure tank and outlets

« on: April 12, 2017, 02:11:58 PM »

I have a  CSV1A  installed on my home system and it works great.  I have a well pump and pressure tank at my dock on the lake and figured to put in a CSV125-1 (60psi) to steady the flow for an irrigation system.  The dock installation for the pressure tank is different however, so am not sure if I can install the valve or I need to replumb from the pump.  Pipe comes comes from the pump to a T, one side of the T goes up to the pressure tank and the other side heads to the water outlets.  Can I install the CSV between between the pump and the T or do I need to reconfigure so that water goes from the pump to the pressure tank and then the outlets?  Thanks for your help.

3

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Seems too good to be true

« on: December 30, 2012, 09:54:01 PM »

From 72 to 50, I got around a gallon and a half of water.  As you suspected this was the problem.  I decided to drain the rest of the water from the tank and start over again.  I removed around 15 gallons of water and then charged the bladder to 40 lbs.  Closed the drain, turned the pump back on and it fills at a much more desirable rate.

Now I get about 4 gallons of water from 72 to 50 and it takes 2:40 to fill back up. 

What are your thoughts on these various settings/results?  Should I leave well enough alone or try to fine tune a bit more?

I appreciate your help and advice.

JD

4

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Seems too good to be true

« on: December 30, 2012, 08:56:15 AM »

Cary,  I got back down to the property for the holidays and have installed the CSV1A valve on my existing system.  The constant pressure works exactly as advertised, but no matter what I do, once the demand is shut off downstream, the pressure tank fills and the pump shuts off in less than 30 seconds.  If I understand the directions correctly, I want the fill up to take at least 2 minutes,  Here are my settings...

Pump on at 50
CSV1A set to 50
Pump off at 72

Pressure tank is a Sta-Rite PS42T-T02 pressurized to 60 psi  (pressure seems high, but that was where it was when I started.  I adjusted it to 40 psi and it just filled faster)

Any thoughts or words of wisdom?

Thanks

JD

5

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Seems too good to be true

« on: December 11, 2012, 06:39:17 PM »

Sorry for the delay in this thread.  I had to gather the info about the pump.

The pump is a Goulds 07GS05422  1/2 HP  7GPM pump  The top of the water column is 5ft below ground level and the pump hangs at 90ft

Based on this information it seems to fit onto the compatibility chart/link you posted above, but the one piece that still concerns me is the water pressure that will build up between the CSV valve and the pump when it closes to it's 1 GPM mode and the pressure tank fills back up.  Your chart even calls that out ........Note:  Pressure rating of pipe installed before the pside-kick must be rated to handle the maximum head or pressure that your pump can build  I've looked in multiple places on line and can't find anything that describes the water pressure that the pump is capable of in these circumstances.  I would like to make sure that the PEX between the well and the house will stand up to having the CSV1A throttling the volume back but water still being pumped from the well.

Thanks.

6

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Seems too good to be true

« on: November 29, 2012, 07:03:27 PM »

Cary, unfortunately the details on my pump are 100 miles away from me, sitting right on the pressure tank that is under discussion at the moment.

I want to say it's a 3/4 HP pump and the well is 100' deep, but I know better than to rely on my memory for such things.  I'll touch base in a week or so when I'm back down at the house.

Thanks.


JD

7

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Seems too good to be true

« on: November 28, 2012, 05:46:17 PM »

Cary, Thank you for the prompt reply.

I'm still wondering about a few things..
  -  when the water demand from the house is done and the CSV closes down to it's 1 GPM nominal flow to fill the tank back up, how can that be good for the well pump?  It seems that with only a small amount of water flowing, and the pump trying it's damndest to pump water, that there wouldn't be enough to keep the pump cool after running 10 minutes to run a shower or 3 hours to fill a hot tub?
  -  with a setup as I described, which one of the valves do you believe would be the better choice & why?
  -  would it be better to swap out my 20 gal tank for a smaller one to minimize the pressure drop as the tank drains or can I stick with the setup I have and just add the CSV?
  -  my water comes into the house via 3/4" PEX tubing and eventually transitions to copper long after it passes the pressure tank and BB filter.  Does that make any difference which valve I should use?

Again,  thank you for the replies as I try to figure out which direction to go with this project.


JD

8

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Seems too good to be true

« on: November 27, 2012, 07:48:14 PM »

I recently blew my well pump and the plumber who came to replace it suggested that the small pressure tank was a likely culprit because it would cause the pump to cycle on and off frequently and not let the pump properly cool itself.  He suggested I upgrade to a bigger tank in the near future.  Not wanting to jump into such a big purchase right away, I did some internet research.  I figured out he was spot on with the likely cause of the pump problem and I also found the Cycle Stop Valve website.

My setup is fairly normal (as far as I know).  There is a 20 gal pressure tank with a electric pressure switch, set to approx 40/60.  There is also a pressure release valve, and a hose connection.  The house is 4 bedrooms, 3 baths, no irrigation system, but I do fill a hot tub 4 times a year.  Only 2 adults living in it.  We have the standard issue of rising and falling pressure as the pump kicks in and the tank drains.  There is also a 20" x 4" whole house water filter on the house side of the pressure tank.

If I understand what I'm reading here, the installation of a CSV150 or a CSV1A valve would solve my cycling issues and save me a pot full of money on the installation of a new pressure tank.  And if I read all the instructions correctly, I simply need to install the valve on the line right next to the pressure tank, between it and the well pump?

I had a plumber out today and he was intrigued by the CSV site, but had never heard of such a thing in a residential application.  He was reluctant to say it would work, because he had no experience with it.  He continued to recommend the new pressure tank.  Yes, he may be trying to just make the sale, but I don't think that was his motivation.

Is it really as simple as I've laid it out here or am I missing something?  Why are more residential plumbers not aware that this technology exists?

I'm really just trying to find the best solution for my issue with the well pump and if I can stabilize the pressure also, that would be a bonus.  Thanks for your help and any comments/explanations/recommendations.  If you need more info from me to comment, just let me know what you need.


JD
Bumpass, VA