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Messages - cpufrost

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That makes sense, and yes I'd say water hammer can be scary bad when there's a check valve at the tank and there's a leak near the pump!  Literally sounds like someone hitting the floor joists with a sledgehammer!  Dynamic pressure easily 10X higher.  Makes me shudder to think that some installers use plastic barbs.

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I just replaced my pump which was only 5 years old.  The pump wasn't bad but was detached due to starting torque.  (unthreaded)  Rather than drop the 5 year old pump back down a 150' hole I opted for a new one as luck has it I don't want to be pulling it in two feet of snow!

Anyhow, the pump is a 3/4 hp two wire and the well is about 100' from the house.  It's connected with HDPE tubing (150PSIG cold working) 1" ID via a standard pitless adapter. 

I do NOT have a check valve on the tank manifold (Amtrol 20 gallon) but I have a Harvard 1 1/4" Stainless Steel high quality spring check threaded right into the pump which has its own check valve.

The system works fine and produces plenty of water.  The cut in is 55 and cut out 75.  It's higher than the standard 40/60 because I have an RO/DI 200gpd watermaker for several things I need pure water for.  I want a steady 60-65 psig to the house.  Sounds simple enough.

My question is, with a 1gpm flow through, understandably your valve is essentially restricting the pump output so the pressure BEHIND the valve down to the pump outlet is going to be MUCH higher and that's worrisome.  I don't want a leak to develop!  And the thought of replacing the line with 1" SCH80 PVC is "it's not happening".

Should I be concerned?

Thanks in advance.

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