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Messages - Starship49a

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Thank you for the detailed responses.
I do not plan to run the house line through the RPZ, only the yard system.  Running the CSV At 70 as you suggested would then make the house pressure a constant 60-63 which would be nice I think.
My 460’ of wiring down the casing is 8 gauge; would you consider that as oversized and affecting the soft start?  The reason I ask is because my 2HP pump’s power curve notes it should be providing 10 gpm at 450’ @ 36psi.  I am only getting 7 gpm at 36 psi and 5-6 gpm at 50 psi, so at 9 years old my pump may be starting to weaken.  If I have to replace the pump it would be a logical time to change the wiring to assist with a softer start.  Your thoughts?

So far I am tracking with you, but I have a question on low volume intermittent water use and how it plays out with the quicker tank draw down.  My wife and I are the only 2 people living in our home and many of our water uses during the day are a toilet flush, quick hand washing and a glass of water or a pot of coffee.  None of these by themselves would cycle the pump even with the small tank...but of course I realize that will occasionally be the case.  (We live in the desert so have no irrigation)  And it is a given that showers/baths will work excellently with the CSV.  The other big user of water is the washing machine.  As luck would have it, our HE washer is dying just like the bladder tank so I am glad actually.  With the HE method of spritzing the hot water in and a tankless water heater a fair distance away from the washer, we can never really get a hot laundry load.   I am actually thinking an old fashioned washing machine that  fills the tub For the wash and rinse cycles might work better with the CSV Than an HE washer.  (I know it would be better at getting hot water in at one time rather than intermittently). What do you think?

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I just built a new well house and my bladder tank recently failed so it seems a good time to consider all options before  moving the “system” into the new well house.  Here are the basics:  my well is 520 ft deep, the pump is at 460 ft and the static level is 395 ft.  My pump is a 240 volt, 2 HP, 10 gpm Sandhandler.  The new well house is 15 ft from the well and the pipe from the well is 1 1/4” and a dedicated input to the tank, (ie., no tee’s or other connections.). The new system will have two dedicated output’s:  a 176’ - 1 1/4” line to the house climbing 15 ft in elevation and a second dedicated line going through a reduced pressure backflow preventer to all the yard hydrants and irrigation systems on our 5 acre farm.  After the tank the line runs through a sediment filter, an iron/sulfate filtration system and a water softener before branching off to the dedicated house and “yard” systems.  I live in western Nevada and the water temperature exiting the well is a balmy 70 degrees and reaching upper 70’s before it make the uphill trek to the house; a perfect growing medium for iron bacteria and sulfates resulting in stinky water.  The less water sitting in a warmer well house the better so the CSV and small tank may have some real advantages.  I have 4 questions:
1.  Is the CSV pressure adjustable?  I will lose 7 1/2 psi going up the hill to the house.
2.  Is there any issue with running the CSV system through the reduced pressure backflow preventer?
3.  I have read many of your explanations on how the CSV works and am pretty familiar with centrifugal pumps as a retired fire engineer.  What I do not understand is the “soft start.”  If the pressure tank starts the pump when it hits the start up pressure, say 40 psi, doesn’t it slam the pump into gear as normal?
4.  Finally, if the CSV limits the line pressure to 50 psi, how does the pressure tank reach the shut off pressure of 60 psi?

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