(EDIT by wgabriel 07/17/15 -- Changed the system in-service time to correct my error and added statement about the CSV pressure drop off on max flow per spec sheets)
Since I sometimes irrigate my garden with a drip irrigation system I built years ago, I've always been concerned with the "constant" cycling of my well pump. From experience at work, there is no way I would have even considered using a VFD controller! I discovered a solution a month or so back -- a Cycle Stop Valve -- and have been researching it from an engineering standpoint. I am a recently-retired electrical engineer with a goodly amount of mechanical background as well. I also saw added benefits for water usage at the house as well. So, I ordered a CSV1A and received it a week or so ago.
Some background -- My well is located around 125 feet from my house. The 6-inch Well Depth is 380 feet. Water Supply at 380 feet is well over 35 gpm. Supply at 200 feet is a bit over 25 gpm. Hell of a well and it's great water except for the acidity. Static water level is usually no more than 15 feet from the top of the well. Must have some amazing pressure to force the water up that far! Submersible Pump is located at 225 feet using 1-inch flex black pipe. The present 1 HP pump with cooling tube around it feeds a standard pressure switch control set around 41/62 psi after passing through a particulate filter. Pressure Tank at well head is 24 gallon. Located at the house is a 32 gallon pressure tank and an up-flow acid neutralizer system. Well water in the Piedmont section of NC is typically acidic. All of this equipment has been in service for about 25 years, except for the pump which was replaced last year due to a blown motor start capacitor. Yes, it actually "blew up". Let me tell you, a blown capacitor in your well will really crap it up for awhile!!! Aaarrrggghhh!!! There is also a takeoff underground just outside the wellhouse that is routed over to a storage shed near my garden where a yard hydrant is located.
With the acidic water situation, I need to utilize non-reactive components where possible before the neutralizer. This was my main reason for selecting the stainless steel CSV1A valve -- that and its overall width. The picture below shows the new installation. Where the CSV is located used to be just a straight piece of 1-inch PVC starting at the Elbow on the left, a Slip/Slip Union and a Slip/FPT Coupling tied to the Pressure Tank T. As such I only had about 15 inches of space to add the CSV1A and the 2 Unions without making major changes. I wanted to use the 2 Unions so I could remove the CSV for any needed maintenance/replacement. It was a bit tough to determine the exact pieces to use to get all this to fit into less than 15 inches, but it all worked out. I also made an emergency bypass to install when the CSV is removed with the parts/pieces from the Union and PVC removed to install the CSV. The bypass is just an appropriate length of PVC pipe with male and female Union "halves" glued to it. So, it just mates up to the corresponding halves of the Unions left when the CSV is removed.
Start-up went very well. Only problem I had was myself and the response time of the CSV being slower than I had expected. System came up with the CSV holding around 40 psi as received and using a set-up flow rate a bit less than 3 gpm, let's say 2-3/4 gpm. Adjusted CSV pressure setoint up to a final 58 psi. I played around with various flow loads -- my irrigation system being the worst case -- and the CSV performs admirably!! Does well when taking showers too! Pressure just sits there at 58 psi. When under max flow conditions irrigating my garden I do see a pressure dropoff of about 7 psig to 51 psig or so, just like the graph shows on the CSV1A specification sheets. So far, I have not decided to make any changes to the CSV setpoint.
Oh, when doing the installation, I also added a new pressure gauge and another valve there at the Tank T. I really sweated whether or not the threads on these devices would seal, as their use in the acidic water for about 25 years had just about eaten up all of the brass threads!! I figured it would be like that though, but had hoped it would not be so bad. So far they are holding fine. I do now have a new replacement Tank T to install at a later date.
Many thanks to the Cycle Stop Valve company for developing this valve. It's a great device! I am very impressed with its performance!!
Cycle Stop Valves can use this content and picture as they may desire.
UDATE July 30, 2017 -- My stainless steel CSV is still working fine after over 2 years of operation. I realize that I'm not saying much in comparison to other CSVs in service but I really am impressed with this device! Not long after posting the review above, I did replace that "almost rotted out" brass (or bronze) Tank T with a Merrill Schedule 80 PVC T and replaced the pressure switch standpipe to stainless to eliminate those pieces of equipment in the well house that were not "plastic" or stainless steel (the CSV) --- well, other than the pressure switch and Pressure Gauge, which I do not plan to replace with stainless versions because of cost versus life. I've only had to replace the pressure switch twice and the pressure gauge once in 27+ years of service. The most recent pressure switch failure was from inconsistent behavior, and the gauge was getting "sticky", so I replaced it at the same time.
Watson
