CSV1Z pressure adjustment

[randomlag]

I installed a CSV1Z 7/2011 and it works great, with one thing I can't figure out.

I though I was supposed to be able to adjust the pressure way past 50, but somehow I can't do that.

My valve adjustment has a plastic spacer about 1/2" thick where the adjustment bolt passes through. I have it adjusted all the way 'tight' to the spacer so it can't go any further. It could if the spacer was removed. Yet, the pressure (when tested using the procedure in the instructions with a flow) will not go over 50psi when drawing. When I shut off the water draw, pump goes up to 60 cutoff and everything shuts off. Pump is a grundfos 16s10-10 and my well is 50ft at the pumping depth.

Is the spacer supposed to be there? I see no mention of the spacer nor see it in any pictures. Can I remove it and just turn the adjustment down more?

That's the only thing that has me baffled.

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Not related, just a comment

I did see that the pressure band can be much narrower from another post.  I want to make it 60-70 and thus raise the CSV pressure along with it to at least 65. Now my switch settings are the standard 40-60. I built an air test system using a 60-80 switch where I could adjust the manual cutoff switch without having to actually run the pump, drain, etc. 

thanks for any advice

[Cary Austin]

Something isn't right.  Tightning the bolt down until it touches the spacer means the CSV is set at about 90 PSI.  You only need to remove the spacer if you want to set the CSV higher than 90.  You have to adjust the CSV when "drawing" no more than 3 GPM.  If you are just opening up a big valve, the pressure will drop off because you are using more than the pump can produce.

To adjust the pressure switch to 60/70, you will need a pressure switch that can do that. The standard FSG2 switch will have about 15 to 17 PSI as minimum bandwidth.  We have an electronic pressure switch (EPS15/99) that will go to a 10 PSI spread, or you can use something like an Allen Bradley model AB836C7A, but you will need a relay.

Call me while you are adjusting the valve and I will talk you through it.  800-652-0207
Cary

[randomlag]

I measured the flow first for the regular outdoor faucet I was using using a timer and a measured container that is exactly 3 gallons. It is under 3 GPM. Then did the adjusting. It went to 50 with some room left. Adjusting further all the way to the plastic stop it stayed at 50 (+ a litte).

I'm working on what I think will be a broken plastic pump pipe, so I thought I'd figure this out at the same time.

That repair is what I'm going to do the minute I send this. I'll double check what I wrote. If it's exactly the same or if somehow I messed up, I'll give you a call later. Thanks.

I actually got a regular 60-80 switch to do 60-70 (could be 75 though - been a while, I haven't installed it because of the pressure setting issue). That's what I was trying to explain about how I built a little test system that let me play with the spring adjustments. The low side has -0- tension on the spring.

Thanks

[Cary Austin]

Loosening the little adjustment screw all the way off will get you the lowest differential that switch can do.  Probably about 15 to 17 PSI between on and off.

A hole or split in the pipe down the well is the best answer for why the pump won't run more than 50 PSI.  At that depth and pressure, that pump should deliver 16 GPM at 60 PSI.  If you have a check valve up top, remove it.  Then if the pressure drops when no water is being used, you have a hole in the pipe.

[randomlag]

The split pipe just occurred. Heck, with the split pump ran constantly and barely got to 40. Heated up the well from 55F to around 70F. With the cooling sleeve that was recommended, don't think the pump is hurt. IOW, that was a different issue I had to fix ATM so my wife will stop asking when she can flush the toilet. Since I was taking the time and having to drain, etc wanted solve the other issue at the same time.

Anyway fixed the pipe and also installed the gauge I was using for my test jig - one of those fluid filled ones. It turns out that the original pressure gauge is a POS - even if new. I'd put a note in your instructions to discard those cheap gauges. Not all that much more.

Yes, it now works as advertised. Happy. Don't think I need to remove the spacer. Only check valve is the one in the pump.

Thanks for the time and explanation of the plastic spacer. I don't think I need to remove that. I now have 60 PSI using my old cutout switch which I upped to 70.

[Cary Austin]

Glad you got it working.  I actually like the cheap guages better than the liquid filled because you can see every flicker of the pressure.  The liquid filled guages mask all the flickering so you can't really see what is going on.  Also the guage is just to get things set up correctly, then it is really not needed.  After a few years even the liquid filled guages plug up and stick.  So years later when you need to do some trouble shooting, you nearly always have to replace the guage anyway.  I have a 60 PSI CSV so my guage has been stuck at 60 PSI for years.  If I notice any presure problems I will stick on an new guage.  But then I would take it off and put it in a box on the shelf, so it will still be good if I ever need to check it again.