Messages

1

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Time to replace worn out system and want to make it right this time.

« on: July 12, 2019, 11:34:30 PM »

No , the CSV maintains the pressure it is set at once the pressure switch turns on and the water pressure rises to its setting as long as at least one gallon per minute is flowing .   So, if your pump can pump 10 gallons per minute without a CSV valve at its pressure setting  it can also pump 10 gallons per minute with the CSV but you cannot adjust the CSV to limit the flow to say 2 gallons per minute.   That actually is the beauty of the CSV it allows constant pressure but variable volume of flow.

Cary may be able to explain differently

2

Irrigation / Re: Large Irrigation system

« on: June 29, 2019, 02:51:26 PM »

since cary hasn't responded yet I will give it a stab.  No, the Cycle Stop Valve will not void the warranty on your pump.  If the pipe you have now handles the pressure ok (which it apparently does ) then it will handle the back pressure from cycle stop valve.  Remember the pressure still won't go higher than your high cutoff pressure of you pressure switch so about 60 psi in the pipe downstream of the pressure switch.  For a 1 hp pump the CSV125-1 would be my choice and psi of 50 or so.  You could also get the CSV1a if you want to adjust the pressure as low as 15lbs I believe but I would only get this one if putting in new tank pressure switch etc just due to extra cost.

I would suggest however,  that if you use the irrigation a lot and don't need a high pressure for that you could use two CYCLE stop valves and systems with lower pressure going to the irrigation system to save energy.

3

Valve Tech / CSV dimensions

« on: June 23, 2019, 02:30:58 PM »

Are the lengths of all the CSV 125 both older ones and newer ones the same length ?  I believe they are.  I ask because I may swap out for a lower pressure CSV125 so that the current line goes to geothermal pump and dump  and adding different line to the house to use my current CSV125. Summary swap one CSV for another with Union already in place for my current CSV125.

4

Valve Tech / Re: csv125-50-1

« on: June 16, 2019, 10:43:14 AM »

I have at least partially resolved my problems
The Cycle Stop Valve was functioning as it should!
My pressure gauge was wrong.  When I replaced it and then readjusted the pressure switch the Cycle Stop Valve functioned as it should.

I also believe I found the source of the original leak in the well.  After I got the valve working again and used the water normally for about a day the pressure in the house dropped and when I checked the well I could hear water running in it again.  The only thing that had changed was increasing the pressure switch from what turned out to be 30psi to 50psi to the desired 40psi to 60 psi.  I determined that at least now it is the o rings on the spool valve that are leaking.  I plan to replace them tomorrow and see how it does, but now I wonder if the o rings even new ones will allow 60psi or higher since they seemed to withstand the 40 psi for years. 

5

Valve Tech / Re: csv125-50-1

« on: June 14, 2019, 09:02:56 AM »

Yes I should be able to.

6

Valve Tech / Re: csv125-50-1

« on: June 13, 2019, 10:16:35 PM »

https://i.imgur.com/PaBM2Dl.jpg  This is a link to photo of setup if it works.  I plan to cut pipe to remove valve and put in a union. Hopefully will find  some trash that is removable.  Also plan to address the leak under house tommorrow. At least I have a soft start pump.  Thanks for the help.

7

Valve Tech / Re: csv125-50-1

« on: June 13, 2019, 04:14:12 PM »

I just rechecked and there are no leaks between house and well, tank etc.  The leak is about 1.5 gallons per minute.  The cycle stop valve does not function at all flow rates from 1 gallon to above 10 gallons per minute.  Here is a link to a photo of my setup :

https://imgur.com/PaBM2Dl

Can the CSV be separated at the orange band without damage in order to remove it and possibly replace  or do I need to cut the pipe and place a union there?   Or do you have any other suggestions other than replacing the CSV valve ?

8

Valve Tech / Re: csv125-50-1

« on: June 13, 2019, 09:28:36 AM »

For clarification the leak is at the house well down flow from the CSV.

To clarify:  If both check valves, the one in the pump and the one I added at the pump were functional could that keep the CSV from functioning normally?

9

Valve Tech / Re: csv125-50-1

« on: June 12, 2019, 08:00:45 AM »

so why isn't the csv working now a leak is same as a faucet in house open? 

10

Valve Tech / csv125-50-1

« on: June 12, 2019, 06:35:59 AM »

I have a 10sq07 3/4 HP pump. I installed the CSV125 50 psi model when I installed the pump last year.  It functioned as it should to keep the pressure at 50 psi.  Recently I noticed some air in the system. I found a small leak under the house where pipe went into a slab that probably settled and was draining out a french drain system.   I cut off flow to the house inside the house thus stopping the flow to the leak and the gauge showed dropping pressure and still cycled .  I then went to the outside cutoff near the well and shut it off and the pressure still dropped and well cycled. So I apparently had two leaks Probably the one under house for a while and just couldn't see it. There was also a leak somewhere from pump to to tank to cutoff where line goes to the house.

I thought that there may be a bad check valve in the pump or a leak in the PVC downpipe.  I could hear what sounded like water running back down the well when pump cycled off.  I wanted to replace the brittle PVC pipe that broke in two places when removing it last year but didn't have time to wait on delivery of Polyethylene downpipes so repaired the pvc and reinstalled .  So I ordered the polyethylene pipe and barb adapters, nipple and al check valve with Vitron seal all in stainless.

This past weekend I pulled the pump and put check valve at the pump and replaced the pump in well with the new poly down pipe. Even though I did not find a specific leak the downpipes was not totally full of water.  After replacing the pump back into well I ran the water to clear any possible debris and saw none. I then lowered the spool valve rest of the way and repowered the system and ran water a while in house and noticed even after clearing the air out the pressure was fluctuating.  I then went back outside and cut off water to house at the well and the system stayed pressurized from pump to house cutoff.  It also stayed pressurized from  pump to cutoff inside the house.  Of course there was still a small leak under the house.   

The problem is now the pump continuously cycles and there is only a 4 gallon tank and I have a watersource pump and dump.  .  I emptied tank and checked pressure it was 38 psi.  The pressure switch is set at 40 to 60.  The CSV125 is 5o psi though our gauge showed 48 psi before the replacement. 

So the CSV125 functioned normally then I put in check valve at pump and replaced downpipes and now it doesn't function none of the other piping was disturbed..  Once I think the valve started working because I started hearing water go through it. 

Does adding the check valve at pump cause a problem?    I haven't fixed the under house leak yet but the valve was functioning with that present.  The gauge also seems to drop further after pump starts and fluctuate a bit at first then builds up normally.  I had not noticed this before but I attributed it to the soft start of the SQ pump.

In retrospect I don't know for sure that check valve in pump was functional or not it looked ok.  I didn't see a leak in downpipe but I don't think it was full of water.  There was a loss in pressure in the well system and now there is not.  The leak under house is still present but it was also present when CSV was functioning. I also noted that there is somewhat of a check valve in the spool valve that might be functional but doesn't appear very reliable just a weak spring and rubber seal screwed on not in a pipe etc.

Could this be related to adding the check valve at the pump and if it is wouldn't the pressures just cycle a little then CSV start working?

Maybe air in CSV?   Any suggestions or insight would be appreciated.

11

Open Loop Geothermal Heat Pump / Re: Geothermal Heat Pump with Single Well (Pump and Dump)

« on: May 26, 2019, 12:56:29 AM »

Thanks for reply exactly what I thought and exactly how I would do it.  I believe for closed loop buried to correct depth generally 600 feet of poly loop per ton more or less depending on soil moisture and location etc and the correct wall thickness of polypipe etc for efficient exchange. So you could do about 2 ton unit with 1200 feet.  Certainly worth thinking about especially if current unit in mother-in-law house bites the dust. 

12

Open Loop Geothermal Heat Pump / Re: Geothermal Heat Pump with Single Well (Pump and Dump)

« on: May 24, 2019, 03:31:10 AM »

I am intrigued by your use of the cal-val valve which appears to act as a pressure relief valve.  So to keep the whole system (meaning your house, the barn/garden and the mother-in-law house) it seems you would have to install the class-val valve after the last pressurized use and before the pond or in other words between the mother-in-law house and the pond .  Is this correct?

If you were not supplying pressurized water for the other uses I assume that it would be more efficient to use the two supply system you have a link for in another post where you supply high psi to house such as 50 psi with jet pump and sidekick and 20 psi to the heat pump via a second CSV.

I believe you are supplying the 50 psi to the heat pump because you are also using the higher pressurized water for the other uses which makes it much more economical in your situation.  It also seems that if you wanted to have a water source heat pump at the mother-in-law house you could also do that even though the temperature of the  water exiting the first heat pump system would have risen or fallen about 15 degrees or so and seem unusable one could possibly use looped piping between the first and second house to act like a closed loop geothermal does to condition the water used by first house prior to entering the second house .  I realize the resistance of any additional piping required if any may be too much to maintain pressure to the second home but this could be overcome by a booster pump if needed.  I also realize the pipe you are using may not be most efficient at heat exchange with the soil.  Just an idea mostly theoretical.  Somehow I believe you may have already considered this.

It is interesting to think of a series of homes ( maybe 4 or so) connected in a similar manner on relatively equal elevation connected in this manner all using water from a sufficiently sized and powered deep well for their water and conditioning needs.

13

Frequently Asked Questions / CSV-1 as a check valve

« on: May 23, 2019, 10:23:59 AM »

My question is does the CSV125-1 act as a check valve after the pressure tank has filled and there is no water demand?

14

Applications / hydropneumatic or air over water tank

« on: October 03, 2018, 06:46:14 PM »

Ia a CSV suitable to use with an air over water tank?  If so is it installed in same location etc as with a bladder tank system ?

Thanks