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11

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Determining back pressure with Psidekick

« Last post by Cary Austin on February 15, 2026, 09:34:40 AM »

The burst pressure of pipe and fittings is 2 to 5 times the rated pressure. So, no I am not worried about it.  Actually the back pressure from the CSV is easier on the pipe and fittings than without a CSV when the pump is cycling on/off and causing water hammer.

12

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Determining back pressure with Psidekick

« Last post by Thronk on February 13, 2026, 02:38:12 PM »

Thanks for helping out! Looks like I am under but with little margin, would this concern you with your experience?

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Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Determining back pressure with Psidekick

« Last post by Cary Austin on February 12, 2026, 07:07:07 PM »

That is actually a pretty good well record.  It shows a 7 GPM, 3/4HP with a static of 175'.  100 PSI pipe is very low rated pipe but, I calculate the back pressure at only 97 PSI.

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Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Determining back pressure with Psidekick

« Last post by Thronk on February 11, 2026, 08:48:44 PM »

I purchased the psidekick based off my well report (not installed yet), seems like it meets the parameters allowed as long as I understood my report.

Now I didn’t think about back pressure and the piping/fittings I have and whether the rating is exceeded. Can I determine back pressure with the information in my report? I started to get concerned since the brass barbed fitting I’m going to use in the black underground cresline pipe is rated for 100 PSI. Will try to see if I can make out the cresline rating on the pipe.

Appreciate any help in advance.

Edit: incoming supply pipe is 100 PSI rated as well, can’t find specs on the pump, not under the well cap. Installed in 1990, location is Maryland.

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Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: sediment filter question

« Last post by Cary Austin on December 23, 2025, 09:33:11 AM »

One hose is usually not enough flow to get the well developed. Big chunks sometimes pump out easily. The smaller the filter size the sooner it needs cleaning. Sizing the filter to what needs filtering is best.

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Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: sediment filter question

« Last post by ps95 on December 22, 2025, 11:48:45 AM »

Thank you, Mr. Cary, for your knowledge concerning all things plumbing and Cycle Stop Valves, as it's a relief to hear that. The clear sediment filter has a 100 size mesh filter on it. Should I leave it or install something with a larger sized mesh, like a 30 or a 40? While it's not sand, it's more like magnetic reddish colored fragments that are about 1/16" on average with some a touch larger. I did let the hose run for a good while after I had the pump pulled due to wires rubbing on the casing. Definitely could hear some bits through the lines!

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Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: sediment filter question

« Last post by Cary Austin on December 22, 2025, 09:04:05 AM »

Shouldn't be a problem.  A filter before the CSV will have high pressure and must be rated for 125-150 PSI.  A filter after the CSV will only see the 40/60 same as the pressure switch setting.

You might also want to pump out the well.  A big valve or multiple hoses open at the same time to move a high volume of water will bring the sand out with it.  Some wells need to be developed like this for hours or days, but then never make sand again.  Usually the well was just never developed properly to begin with.

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Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / sediment filter question

« Last post by ps95 on December 21, 2025, 04:30:54 PM »

Hello there, I have a cycle stop valve installed in my well house. The pictures below are located in an attached garage. When I replaced my large failed tank with a smaller one, I noticed that it was filling up with debris. I put a sediment filter in between the pressure tank and the vertical Tee coming from out of the concrete. Is this okay to do?
Thanks

19

Frequently Asked Questions / Re: Issues after replace tank and switch

« Last post by ross on December 01, 2025, 11:28:10 AM »

Thanks for your response. The tank is the same size (4.4 gallon). I'll follow your suggestion and shut off the valve and see what the readings are. Yesterday, it didn't drop to 20, just to 40 and then the pump kicked on but again wouldn't shut off after 10 minutes even though no water was demanded. I also did a fairly thorough check for any leaks around the whole system and didn't find anything. There didn't seem to be a problem with the system going off and suggesting a leak before the changeout of equipment so I kind of doubt that's a problem. I'll call if needed--thanks for your help.

20

Frequently Asked Questions / Re: Issues after replace tank and switch

« Last post by Cary Austin on December 01, 2025, 08:44:26 AM »

Hello,

I don't think you needed the pressure switch with the lever. I would get one without personally. Is the tank the same small size?

The test I would do is when you are at 50psi wanting the pump to build to 60psi, close the main shutoff valve so we know everything is off. Have you tried this? It holding 50psi makes me think water is still flowing through the CSV and it is holding 50psi.

The pressure dropping to 20psi after you manually turn pump off makes me think water is going somewhere too or it would stay at 50psi then.

I wouldn't adjust the CSV. The settings do not change if they worked before. If you see leakage from the CSV at all let me know...

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