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Frequently Asked Questions / Re: System overhaul recommendations/advice
« Last post by Cary Austin on November 06, 2023, 12:52:56 PM »
The highest pressure shallow well jet pump I know of is the J15S, which will build 83 PSI max and work with a 50/70 switch and a CSV setting of 65 PSI.

To get up to 60/80 with the CSV set for 70-75 PSI you will need a multi-stage centrifugal or a submersible.  Here is a multi-stage.

If you drop in a submersible you can use a pump like this for a fraction of the price.

Any of them will work with CSV or the PK1A kit.  But to go 50/70 pressure or higher I would recommend the heavy duty pressure switch and the 10 gallon size tank.  Even with the heavy duty switch you can still turn it down as low as 30/50 if needed.
Frequently Asked Questions / Re: System overhaul recommendations/advice
« Last post by Rollaknot on November 06, 2023, 09:45:02 AM »
Thank you Carey for sharing all of your priceless knowledge.  What pump would you recommend for this set up and would it be possible to go ahead and add the PK1A PSIDE-KICK with the 70 psi 60/80 switch and set it to accommodate the existing pump in preparation of upgrading to a bigger pump in the near future?  I am wanting to utilise the irrigation lines that were hear from the previous owners but with the current pressures it struggles.  I suspect they originally had a bigger pump to accommodate prior to the one installed now because they quit using the irrigation.
Frequently Asked Questions / Re: System overhaul recommendations/advice
« Last post by Cary Austin on November 04, 2023, 12:17:18 PM »
That pump builds a max pressure of 67 PSI.  That means the highest you can run the pressure switch is about 35/55 with the CSV set for a constant 45 PSI.  The constant 45 from the CSV will make it seem much stronger than when cycling on at 35 and off at 55. 

There must be a check valve.  It is probably on the suction line to the storage tank.  Filters cost you pressure.  Don't filter unless you have to.  You can do it.  The PK1A is easy to install.
Frequently Asked Questions / System overhaul recommendations/advice
« Last post by Rollaknot on November 03, 2023, 12:38:51 PM »
My current bladder tank is bad so I am in the beginning stages of overhauling my wellhouse. I am by no means versed in this subject but being on a tight budget I am going to tackle this project myself. I just want to make sure there are no tricks of the trade that I am missing.

I have a 1500 gal storage tank with a Myers Shallow Well Jet Pump 28 GPM 1 HP #HJ100S which then feeds the bad pressure tank at the moment.  After the bladder tank I have a 1" tee where one side feeds the house and the other 1" line feeds a irrigation line/hose bib.

My plan is to re-plumb the whole well house and install the PK1A PSIDE-KICK with the 70 psi 60/80 switch.  One question I had is, will the Myers pump build that much pressure?

The current system does not have any check valves of any sort, and we are still debating on whether or not to add inline filters.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.
I have seen dramatic increases with steel casing.  PVC not so much.  But the brushing and bailing only cleans up the perforations so what water is there can get in.  If the water isn't there it won't help much.
Thanks Cary,
Yes, you did answer this question on another website.
I posted here the morning of Sat. Sept 30 and I posted on the other site that afternoon before you answered here.

I agree with you on 1.25 gpm being considered a dry well. Unfortunately common sense on the left coast is not as common as it is in Texas and the county I live in has an alternate sense of reality.

I will check again with the well drillers to see if there has been any changes, for the better, in my county.

What is the average percent of gpm increase that you have experienced with a brush and bail?

 Would it usually be worth spending $1,000 and removing a new roof from a 12' tall pump house?

Thanks again
I could have swore I answered this.  I hate getting old.  Sorry. 

Brushing and bailing will usually help, especially with steel casing.  Most counties would consider 1.25 GPM a dry well.
I have a nearly 60 year old, 1.250 GPM well. I have no way to prove it, but I am guessing that when the well was new, it had to have been producing more than 1.250 GPM.

I was talking with a local Well drilling company and they said that for just shy of $1,000 they could Brush my 65 foot well casing and Bail out the sediment from the bottom of the well.
In order to do the Brush & Bail, I will need to remove a portion of my pump house's new roof and cut a hole in the ceiling above my well casing to allow access to the well.

What are the odds of Brush & Bailing the well making any improvement in my GPM?
Is it usually successful or more than likely a bust?

If I get the Brush & Bail done, would there be any advantage in getting a plastic casing liner installed?

I have checked into getting a new well put in, but the County I live in is not exactly easy to work with when it comes to new wells, especially if there is already a producing well on the property. One well driller instructed me to tell the County that the well runs dry in the summer and technically it does run dry, but it doesn't stay dry and the well will usually have enough water to start up the pump in a few minutes.

Thank you for any help you can provide
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Formula for pump math?
« Last post by Cary Austin on September 19, 2023, 08:06:43 PM »
The tank is certainly bad. Look at the PK125.
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Formula for pump math?
« Last post by Tyler Coressel on September 19, 2023, 04:55:35 PM »
I think maybe my last description wasnt very good lol! I took a video of my pressure gauge with my sink running to show what im talking about but i cant find a way to upload the video here. But it kicks in at 40, pump runs two seconds and kicks out at 60. Pressure drops as faucet runs, 5 seconds to get down to 40 then kicks pump in, 2 seconds and system is back to 60, kicks out. Process repeats. Same with toilet flushes. Keeps doing that until the toilet tank is refilled, hence the 3 or 4 cycles.

I am thinking you were correct the first time about the pressure tank being bad.  Doesnt seem to be tripping the pump overload. Its only a 7 gallon tank, but it also could be bad. It has been here the 7 years I have lived here and the system has always acted this way.

And yes, you're right, i forgot about the 1 psi per 2.31ft. Not a good idea to put the CSV right in the pump 50ft down. I will purchase one and put it below the pitless. Thank you for your time and for allowing me to ask my questions here! This is an amazing forum that i have learned a lot from already!
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