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1

Applications / Re: Request: Assistance w/ Old Pumptec Pressure Tank Based System

« Last post by Cary Austin on August 24, 2025, 07:40:10 AM »

The 115v booster pump will not work with a 230v Cycle Sensor. So, the only option for dry run protection is the lower float switch.

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Applications / Re: Request: Assistance w/ Old Pumptec Pressure Tank Based System

« Last post by Gerry S. on August 22, 2025, 04:49:27 PM »

Thank you.  Just ordered a 50/70 PK1A PSIDE-KICK 10 Gallon and two Cycle Censors.  Looking forward to trying out the CSV!

Question, I've decided to use a 1/2 hp 115v cistern pump instead of a booster as this is in a garage and would like to minimize sound. Would it be ok to add a normally open float switch to the CycleStop Valve pressure switch for the cistern pump to shutoff in case of a dry run condition in the water tank?  Not sure if the float switch may interfere with the Cycle Censor connected to the cistern pump.

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Applications / Re: Request: Assistance w/ Old Pumptec Pressure Tank Based System

« Last post by Cary Austin on August 18, 2025, 11:15:02 AM »

Sorry for the delay.  You are on the right track.  But the 10 gallon tank is for the higher pressure needed for the extra floor.  So, instead of 40/60 with the CSV at 50, I would set the switch for 50/70 and set the CSV at 60.  The J5SH only does 4.8 GPM at 60 PSI and 7.7 GPM as the demand increases and the pressure drops to 50 PSI.  The next step up that will work at 50/70 is the J15S.

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Applications / Re: Request: Assistance w/ Old Pumptec Pressure Tank Based System

« Last post by Gerry S. on August 14, 2025, 08:21:06 PM »

I am guessing you have a 10 GPM series 1.5HP.  If so, with static at 174' you will have about 170 PSI back pressure on the CSV.  You will need the CSV1A, which will work with your 80 gallon size tank.  Just needs to be adjust to keep tank fill time to about 3 minutes.  The Cycle Sensor will also work with the CSV and protect your pump from running dry.  The Cycle Sensor can stay on the well pump after you get a storage tank and booster pump.  But the CSV1A with your pressure tank and switch can be moved to control the booster pump.

Extremely helpful, and I appreciate the time taken to provide the help above!

Prefer to get rid of the 85g pressure tank right away taking up space. That is, until we get around to the larger cistern style setup.  In the meantime aiming for: a 10 gallon PK1A PSIDE-KICK setup with a 165 gallon garage storage tank (in place of the 85g pressure tank). The reason for 10 gallon is to maintain pressure to second floor of a two story house and a separate two story garage/apartment- on top of the irrigation mentioned above.

Do these parts (and diagram found online) seem on par?

• Custom PK1A PSIDE-KICK Pressure Tank Kit - 10 gallon / Standard pressure switch. Valve setting: 50
• Well pump: CS1PH1-2HP230V CYCLE SENSOR w/ NEMA ENCLOSURE (wired to a submersible 1.5HP 10gpm pump)
• Booster pump: A second CS1PH1-2HP230V CYCLE SENSOR w/ NEMA ENCLOSURE  (wired to Goulds J5SH Shallow Well Jet Pump - 83 PSI Max)

Note: haven't purchased a booster pump yet but the J5SH can provide 11.5 GPM (1/2 HP), and per a pressure tank test today, it took 125 seconds to fill the pressure tank so doing about ~12gpm.

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Applications / Re: Request: Assistance w/ Old Pumptec Pressure Tank Based System

« Last post by Cary Austin on August 10, 2025, 08:02:13 PM »

CSV with well pump.

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Applications / Re: Request: Assistance w/ Old Pumptec Pressure Tank Based System

« Last post by Cary Austin on August 10, 2025, 08:00:10 PM »

I am guessing you have a 10 GPM series 1.5HP.  If so, with static at 174' you will have about 170 PSI back pressure on the CSV.  You will need the CSV1A, which will work with your 80 gallon size tank.  Just needs to be adjust to keep tank fill time to about 3 minutes.  The Cycle Sensor will also work with the CSV and protect your pump from running dry.  The Cycle Sensor can stay on the well pump after you get a storage tank and booster pump.  But the CSV1A with your pressure tank and switch can be moved to control the booster pump.

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Applications / Request: Assistance w/ Old Pumptec Pressure Tank Based System

« Last post by Gerry S. on August 09, 2025, 07:20:01 PM »

Greetings, great forum and excellent resources here. Spent a good while learning about cycle stop valves and now I’m hoping to get some pro advice on updating our well setup. That is, verification I'm on the right path along with parts numbers I should purchase. Some background:

We recently added an irrigation system to our home, and I’m trying to prevent the well pump from running dry. Based on my calculations, our well has a reserve of about 500 gallons (stats below).

Our system includes a Square D pressure switch and an 85-gallon Goulds pressure tank in the garage. Since adding the irrigation, we’ve occasionally experienced a complete loss of water and pressure. Twice overnight and a few times during the day. This never happened before, so I suspect the well can’t keep up with the increased demand.

From what I’ve gathered from posts and videos on this site, adding a cycle stop valve and a cycle sensor; along with possibly getting rid of the large 85-gallon pressure tank and Pumptec might create a more efficient system and help protect the pump from running dry. This is all without adding a 5000 gallon storage tank with booster pump. Which we plan to do next year but looking at a CSV and cycle censor as something that can be done right away and work with a storage tank after its installed.

I’m not sure what brand of pump or model is installed outside of it being 230 VAC, but based on a recent test by local well professionals (conducted before the new irrigation was installed), it appears to be a 10–15 GPM pump. Here are their write-up and results:

PUMP SIZE /TYPE: 1.5 HP
MOTOR SIZE /TYPE: 1.5 HP   
CONTROL BOX SIZE/TYPE: 1.5 HP FRANKLIN
PRESSURE SWITCH: 30/50         
AMPS: YELLOW 10.2 RED 10.9 BLACK 9.0
PUMP IS PUMPING AT: 12 GPM
WELL RECOVERED: .9 GPM
STATIC WATER LEVEL: 174
WHAT IS CUT IN PRESSURE? 35 PSI   
WHAT IS CUT OFF PRESSURE? 55 PSI
WHAT IS PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL: 20PSI
PRESSURE TANK MAKE / MODEL: V 250 D GALLONS 85
TANK PRESSURE: 36 PSI
IS TANK WATER LOGGED: NO               
PITLESS ADAPTER INSTALLED YES SIZE 1"

Well stats from original well certification:
Drilled: May 2007
Depth: 509'
Bore Diameter: 6.5"
PVC Diameter: 5.5"
Water @325 Feet 1gpm
Water @425 Feet 2gpm
Distance from well head to pressure tank in garage: 150ft


Thank you for your time or any assistance!
Gerry

8

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Water Hammer When Pump Stops

« Last post by Cary Austin on July 29, 2025, 06:59:20 AM »

Water hammer will always be there when the pump is filling the tank at max pump flow of 10-20 GPM.  At 10-20 GPM the check valve is wide open when the pump shuts off.  The spring in a spring loaded, poppet style check valve is supposed to pull the check valve closed when the pump stops, before the water reverses direction and slams the check valve closed.  But that all happens so fast the water still reverses, slams the check valve shut, causing the water hammer.

Adding a Cycle Stop Valve will still allow your pump to produce 10-20 GPM when needed.  The Cycle Stop Valve will just top off the tank at a flow rate of 1 GPM instead of 10-20 GPM.  When the pump is shut off while only pumping 1 GPM, the check valve is only open as much as the thickness of a piece of paper.  From the barely open position, the check valve does not cause water hammer when the pump shuts off.

You can use the CSV with any size tank, but the 5 gallon size shown in the picture is really all that is needed.  But if you have a 50 gallon size tank that holds 15 gallons of water, the CSV should be set at 55 PSI to work with a 40/60 switch.  In this way the tank is filled quickly to 55 PSI, and the CSV fills the last 3 gallons in the tank at 1 GPM rate, making it take only 3 minutes to fill such a large tank after all the faucets are closed.

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Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Water Hammer When Pump Stops

« Last post by fotingo on July 28, 2025, 02:43:31 PM »

As far as I know, this has been an issue. I replaced the water tank and the issue was still there. I have the water pressure at 35-55 and set the tank at 33 psi.
I check it every 6 months. I believe the tank is fine as I've never had any issues with it. It only loses 1-2 psi in 6 months.

Is that a picture of what you're suggesting? (the small grey tank)

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Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Water Hammer When Pump Stops

« Last post by Cary Austin on July 28, 2025, 12:46:58 PM »

Your pressure tank is a large hammer arrestor.  The problem is the check valve slamming closed from the full open position after filling the pressure tank.  Adding a Cycle Stop Valve has many benefits.  One of which is filling the pressure tank at only 1 GPM, not the full pump flow rate.  At 1 GPM the check valve is only open about the thickness of a piece of paper and there is no water hammer when it closes when the pump shuts off.