Recent Posts

1

Frequently Asked Questions / Re: Shallow well losing prime

« Last post by Cary Austin on May 25, 2023, 06:55:20 AM »

I would not turn up the pressure. That pump will probably not be able to build that much pressure.  Pumps do not normally loose prime when running unless there is a leak in the suction pipe.  But 30 PSI is usually the number when there is something obstructing the jet nozzle in the pump. 

If the pump is cycling while running the irrigation because the sprinklers are attached before the CSV, then it could be losing prime when it is shut down.

2

Frequently Asked Questions / Shallow well losing prime

« Last post by Ambassador on May 23, 2023, 04:59:36 PM »

I'm restoring an old well here. Everything outside is brand new. Water is consistently at the pump (no leaks on the inlet) and I run the sprinklers at 45/62 with the CSV set at 58.

Sporadically (now quite often) the gauges at the pump/tank/CSV all show about 30 PSI, and it's acting as if it's trying to prime.

The pump is a heavy old cast iron F&W 1hp and there's an old galvanized tank with Merrill Float installed (not a bladder and no Schrader valve) and a threaded plug on top.  I have the switch on the CSV. The CSV outlet goes down to a tee which goes to the sprinklers and the other side of the tee down to the tank. (I only get rapid cycling for a few seconds when the ball valve between the CSV and the tee is closed during initial priming.)

I can easily reprime by closing the ball valve, turning on the pump, and slowly opening the ball valve to fill the tank. Other times, assuming it's waterlogged, I have to drain the tank, unscrew the top plug to let air in, replug, and refill.

Now, before I lift that heavy pump up off the check valve (again) to tighten the spring on the check valve, I figured I'd ask the following question just in case...

Could having the sprinkler outlet between the CSV and the tank be causing this issue?

I figure eventually I will just replace the large galvanized tank with a smaller tank since I have the CSV now, but I'd like to solve this first. I notice the pump initially pulls around 60 PSI when I go to reprime with the ball valve closed. I wonder if running at 60/80 would give it more suction at cut-in vs 45 and therefore prevent it from losing prime. Of course, I'd like to figure out why this is happening, though.

3

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Yard Hydrant hook up to Well Pressure Tank outlet

« Last post by Cary Austin on May 17, 2023, 12:07:07 PM »

Yes, adding a frost free hydrant is really that easy.  What is hard is managing the flow rate with a frost free hydrant.  Unlike a little hose bib a frost free will open enough to drop the pressure to almost nothing.  Then if you do not open the frost free enough, the pump will cycle on and off which is what destroys pumps.  Adding a Cycle Stop Valve will let you use the hydrant or any water anyway you want.  It won't help with pressure if you open the hydrant too much, but will stop the cycling when less water is needed or being used.

4

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Yard Hydrant hook up to Well Pressure Tank outlet

« Last post by Stacks056 on May 16, 2023, 03:39:30 PM »

Hello,

I thought I'd ask all you smart people if there was anything to watchout for when connecting a yard hydrant to a well pressure tank. 

My plan is to run PVC pipe 1.25" to the desired location, drain the tank, connect the pipe to the tank outlet, connect the pipe to the 3/4" hydrant, open the tank to the well pump and let it fill, then open the hydrant and watch water flow like a tsunami:)

is it really that simple, or are there issues to watch out for related to pressure and head elevation? Or connection types etc

thanks,

chris

5

Valve Tech / Re: Pipe Diameter Change

« Last post by Cary Austin on May 09, 2023, 04:33:00 PM »

The CSV1A is dual threads so you can do just that.  Use either thread on either end.  Enjoy!

6

Applications / Re: Protect pump drawing water for irrigation

« Last post by Cary Austin on May 09, 2023, 04:31:48 PM »

The Cycle Sensor reads low amps when the pump is out of water and shuts of the pump to protect it.  You can see it here.
https://vimeo.com/248374357

7

Applications / Protect pump drawing water for irrigation

« Last post by jeff on May 09, 2023, 09:58:14 AM »

I have a 1-1/2 hp pump drawing water from the lake for lawn irrigation.  I want to protect the pump if the flow stops.  Sometimes the filter in the lake will become clogged due to weeds.  What is the best solution?

8

Valve Tech / Pipe Diameter Change

« Last post by stvnwhite on May 07, 2023, 03:18:38 PM »

Hello -

I have 1" line coming off my submersible but 1-1/4" line on distribution lines.  During an initial piping setup, does the CSV care if I go directly into it with 1" (internal threads) and exit with 1-1/4" (using the external threads) or should I transition farther from the valve itself ?    If so, on the upstream or downstream side of the valve?

Thanks

9

Applications / Re: Which CSV will work best in my system

« Last post by Cary Austin on April 07, 2023, 03:52:41 PM »

That would do it.  Glad you figured it out and got it working.  Also glad you are happy with the pressure from the CSV.

10

Applications / Re: Which CSV will work best in my system

« Last post by Onetime on April 07, 2023, 10:07:17 AM »

So I think I found the problem. Because most of the pipes were newly replaced and glued, I had some glue bits ( looked like scotch tape pieces )  and they all collected at the 1” check valve, keeping the valve stuck open and severely restricting the water flow. Now cleaned and back together everything is working great. Also changed the whole house filter today and found a few bit in there.

So there are three water feeds.
#1 the one with the gray union, is the water furnace line originally it was a 3/4” PVC with several 45’s and 90 degree connectors. I changed to 1” awhile back.  The line I put in is 1”PVC pipe, but all the bends are straight pipe heated and curved. I never had the chance to change the check valve from 3/4” to 1’ and the last 2’ of pipe, now that I changed that and added the CSV1A the furnace seems the ramp up faster and run better.

#2 the one with the insulation on it is the house water. Nothing there changed.

#3 the one with the blue shut off valve: that a 1” PVC Pipe that feeds  the four frost free hydrants in the yard. I will turn on once I need water outside.

 I also replaced the pressure gauge and the pressure switch, as they were both 20 years old.

So my experience with the CSV1A in place, definitely better pressure when taking showers and better overall pressure at the faucets. No more hammering when the pump shuts off. So far I’m glad I came across the information on the valve by accident, is was on Pinterest.

Thanks Ken