WELL SEDIMENT

[KULTULZ]

I have fairly heavy sediment from my well and while it is controlled by a sediment filter system after the pressure tank, I am concerned about the check valve, pressure switch and possible sediment buildup in the pressure tank.

If one were to place a sediment filter before the check valve (and I know this is considered a no-no) and if one was to install either your EPS15/99 and/or CYCLE SENSOR, would either feature shut off the pump if the filter became plugged to prevent pump burnout (desire manual purge over a automatic purge)?

Wondering in W(BY GOD) V.... 

And yes, I do have your CSV...

[Cary Austin]

Installed prior to the CSV, the filter will have high pressure on it.  Make sure of the pressure rating of the filter and compare to the deadhead pressure that the pump can build.  Give me a pump model number and the water level in the well and I can figure the pressure for you.  A low pressure cut-off, which is the M4 feature in a regular Square D pressure switch, can shut the pump off when the filter becomes clogged enough that it can't supply as much water as you are using.  The Electronic Pressure Switch, EPS15/99 can also do this.  The EPS is more of a novelty pressure switch if you want to see the digital display, which is cool, but won't do anything else different from the Square D mechanical switch.

[KULTULZ]

Installed prior to the CSV, the filter will have high pressure on it.  Make sure of the pressure rating of the filter and compare to the deadhead pressure that the pump can build.  Give me a pump model number and the water level in the well and I can figure the pressure for you.  A low pressure cut-off, which is the M4 feature in a regular Square D pressure switch, can shut the pump off when the filter becomes clogged enough that it can't supply as much water as you are using.  The Electronic Pressure Switch, EPS15/99 can also do this.  The EPS is more of a novelty pressure switch if you want to see the digital display, which is cool, but won't do anything else different from the Square D mechanical switch.

UTILITECH PRO
4in Submersible Pump
Model #UT200 115V

(Yes, I know it is a piece of crap but it is what the builder installed)

The water level I have no idea. Would the well drilling company keep that info?

So in essence, you are saying to put a filter ahead of the mechanical switch and CSV, there will be no detriment(s) if the filter becomes fully plugged and the present mechanical switch will sense low flow and shut down the pump?

THANX! 

[Cary Austin]

That 1/2 HP pump can't build more than 96 PSI, no matter the depth.  Yes a low pressure cut-off switch should protect you.

[KULTULZ]

Installed prior to the CSV, the filter will have high pressure on it.  Make sure of the pressure rating of the filter and compare to the deadhead pressure that the pump can build.

GOOD POINT! THANX... 

A low pressure cut-off, which is the M4 feature in a regular Square D pressure switch, can shut the pump off when the filter becomes clogged enough that it can't supply as much water as you are using.  The Electronic Pressure Switch, EPS15/99 can also do this.

What is my biggest concern is that the pump will be deactivated before excess pressure develops, possibly burning out the pump.

The EPS is more of a novelty pressure switch if you want to see the digital display, which is cool, but won't do anything else different from the Square D mechanical switch.

I admire the easily read display and ease of pressure adjustment. Do they (you) make a model for a 115V pump?

[Cary Austin]

What is my biggest concern is that the pump will be deactivated before excess pressure develops, possibly burning out the pump.

I admire the easily read display and ease of pressure adjustment. Do they (you) make a model for a 115V pump?

The pump cannot "deactivate" until the pressure switch sees cut off pressure.  As long as the filter is leaking through at least 1 GPM, the pump will not get hot.

I have 3 of those EPS switches in 115V.  50 bucks a piece for a close out special, and 30 day warranty.

[KULTULZ]

What is my biggest concern is that the pump will be deactivated before excess pressure develops, possibly burning out the pump.

I admire the easily read display and ease of pressure adjustment. Do they (you) make a model for a 115V pump?

The pump cannot "deactivate" until the pressure switch sees cut off pressure.  As long as the filter is leaking through at least 1 GPM, the pump will not get hot.

I have 3 of those EPS switches in 115V.  50 bucks a piece for a close out special, and 30 day warranty.

Close out special? Why is the company dropping the switch, poor sales? 

THANX for all the info. I will leave you alone now... 

[Cary Austin]

The EPS has had about 15% failures.  While most companies that sell electronic devices would think this is a very low percentage for failures, it is way more than the ½ of 1% we see with our Cycle Stop Valves.  We are just not custom to complaints from our customers.  Even though the EPS is a very good device, and I am going to keep a few because I love them on my house and shop wells, we no longer wish to sell them. 

I still have the original EPS on my house, which makes it older than any others, and it is still working fine.  Even most of the failures we had were installer errors, by breaking off the push buttons or wire connectors.  However, we would rather throw the hundreds and hundreds of them we have in the trash, instead of having even one unhappy customer.

If you know anyone who wants to go into the pressure switch business, I would make them a very good deal.

[KULTULZ]

  ...help...

Ms. Cary,

I bow to your knowledge once again.

After having resigned myself to the fact that the only way to control my well water hardness problem (920 mg/L - 53GPG), I have decided on a salt based system (salt-less wouldn't touch it).

While attempting to determine my pump flow rate for proper unit sizing, I have again mystified myself.

I used the formula found online but the result(s) are confusing. I drained the pressure tank (20gl) (@ 60 PSI) and allowed to refill. I recovered five gallons until the pump cut back in. It took 4 minutes to fill the tank. Now according to the formula, 5 gal is divided by 240 seconds (4 min) then multiplied by 60 to arrive at the flow rate. My calculator arrived @ 1.24 GPM. What am I doing wrong?

I have you CSV and the constant pressure to the house is 40PSI (after initial tank draw-down). I seem to have good pressure in the house (?).

I attached this post to the previous one as I am still fighting bad water.

THANX!

[Cary Austin]

Hi Kultulz
The CSV always fills the tank at about 1 GPM.  That is why you are measuring 1.24 GPM, which is pretty darn close.  You have a 10 GPM pump, and that is how you should size the softener.  If you want to measure the 10 GPM, use a hose or two to keep the pressure below 40 PSI, which will make the CSV just act like a piece of pipe.  Depending on the depth to water you should measure between 8 and 14 GPM.

[KULTULZ]

Hi Kultulz

Hi Cary... 

The CSV always fills the tank at about 1 GPM.  That is why you are measuring 1.24 GPM, which is pretty darn close. 

You have a 10 GPM pump, and that is how you should size the softener.  If you want to measure the 10 GPM, use a hose or two to keep the pressure below 40 PSI, which will make the CSV just act like a piece of pipe.  Depending on the depth to water you should measure between 8 and 14 GPM.

...hmmph...

Your knowledge is invaluable. Now I understand.

THANK YOU!