Author Topic: Pressure switch setting  (Read 5543 times)

frankcar1965

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Pressure switch setting
« on: July 06, 2014, 09:02:56 PM »
Got my new CSV and can't wait to put it on.  It is a CSV60, if I understand correctly, the PS should be set to 50/70, the tank is a 20gal.  And the empty tank should be 40-48 psi, is this correct? Also I think there may be a problem, my PS is on the main line near the T, just adjacent to the tank, will this screw things up and make me redo the piping and move it to the same line as the tank? I sure hope not, maybe it will work just as it is. Frank

Cary Austin

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Re: Pressure switch setting
« Reply #1 on: July 07, 2014, 07:13:27 AM »
You are correct on all of the above.  If the pressure switch is close enough to the pressure tank you maybe OK.  If the pump bounces on and off during startup, the pressure switch will need to be move closer to the tank.  But if it is already working that way, you maybe able to get away without moving it.

frankcar1965

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Re: Pressure switch setting
« Reply #2 on: July 07, 2014, 03:03:22 PM »
Thanks it's working great as is, hope I don't have to do anything else but install the valve. I have a probably stupid question, the drop pipe coming out of the well seal, is it free rotating or is it in fixed postition? I did not pay attention when the well guy was setting it all up and it would possibly help when installing the valve if I could twist it in different directions to make everything fit.

Cary Austin

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Re: Pressure switch setting
« Reply #3 on: July 07, 2014, 03:38:18 PM »
If you have a regular well seal with the pipe coming out the top of the well you can turn it 360 degrees no problem.  Just don't go over the wire or turn more than you need as it can mess up the wire.

frankcar1965

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Re: Pressure switch setting
« Reply #4 on: July 10, 2014, 08:37:11 PM »
Success! No cycling!  Very nice thing we have here. Most of the time the pump will not cycle anyway since it will running full output but I also use soaker hoses and small sprinklers and small sprinkler lines were it would, but not now. No chattering or rapid cycling at start up either. Seems to come on at 48 and off at 58 or so and that's fine.
One question, when running it seems to hold the pressure at about 64 or 65, this is the gauge at the tank, another gauge connected elsewhere at a distance reads slightly less, but still more than 60, normally this wouldn't be a problem except I notice that there are a couple of drips at pvc fittings that were not there before.  I'm thinking this might be the slight increase in pressure. This is after the valve but it concerns me a little. Is it the increase in pressure? Should I be worried?
One more thing, I assume a low rushing noise through the valve is normal, correct? Not much but I can hear it. Thanks so much.

Cary Austin

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Re: Pressure switch setting
« Reply #5 on: July 11, 2014, 07:09:10 AM »
I don't see how it could be holding 60 to 65 PSI if the pressure switch is shutting the pump off at 58 PSI?  That doesn't make sense.  I hope it was a typo and you meant the switch is working at 48/68.  Then it would make sense.

If a few extra pounds causes fittings to leak, then the fittings are not good.  They should be rated for well over 150 PSI and not leak.

Water spewing through the CSV sounds the same as water spewing through a faucet or a ball valve.  It should not be any more noticeable than that.

But it sounds like everything is working if the pump no longer cycles on small zones like with soaker hoses.

frankcar1965

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Re: Pressure switch setting
« Reply #6 on: July 11, 2014, 10:00:30 AM »
Yes a typo,but what would that mean then? There is an elevation difference of about 6 ft and this is when I see most pressure difference, with the well below the sprinklers, could this be what I'm seeing? I will replace the fitting, it's only a small drip and not fast but I noticed it.   
The water does sound just like thru a fawcett, no problem.

Cary Austin

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Re: Pressure switch setting
« Reply #7 on: July 11, 2014, 10:26:02 AM »
Anytime you have a distance between two pressure gauges they will register differently according to the difference in elevation and friction loss.  Irrigation installers usually want 60 PSI at the well and/or tank so there will still be 50 PSI left at the sprinklers.  Going through backflow devices and filters causes even more losses.

Then there is the fact that no two pressure gauges ever read the same.  I would bet if you swap those two gauges you will get even different readings.  I trust the CSV to hold the right pressure more than what the gauge is saying.  When you say it is holding 64-65 PSI, my first thought is your gauge is 4 PSI off, which is normal.

What is important is that the pump runs continually as long as any water is running.  And that it doesn't take longer than about 2 minutes for the pump to shut off after you turn off all the faucets.  As long as these two things are happening the pressure gauge(s) are just for your information.  They have absolutely nothing to do with how the system is working.