Cary,
For whatever it's worth.
I sincerely appreciate your help. I would not be where I am today had I not found your web site and phoned you.
Many thanks.
Jerry
My Conversion from Franklin Electric to Cycle Stop Valves
In June 2006 a reputable local driller set a Franklin Electric 1.5 HP pump and 3 HP
3-phase 220 VAC motor in my 285 ft well that pumped 30 gpm when drilled, reasoning
that the 3-phase motor could run at the appropriate speed to match demand, requiring a
much smaller pressure tank than an on-off system. etc. He also installed a 10-gallon
drawdown pressure tank and a Franklin Electric SubDrive 150 in NEMA 1 enclosure,
always shielded from moisture, fed by 220 VAC single phase. The pump supplied 2
residences, including a heat pump that pulled 10 gpm.
In fall 2011 the system degraded to no more than 20 psi and, more dissatisfactory,
began a very regular 5-minute fault cycle 24 X 7. The Subdrive would power the pump
to run a few to several seconds, shut the pump down and begin flashing the red fault
LED at 3 second intervals for the remainder of the 5 minutes, when the pump would run
again. Depending on demand during the 5 minutes, pressure at any spigot often
dropped to zero. Numerous attempts to reset the microprocessor of the Subdrive failed
to change the situation.
The installer initially suggested replacing the pressure switch, which had no effect.
His experienced dissatisfaction with the manufacturer made him reluctant to call
Franklin Electric for support. Therefore I emailed a detailed fault log and description to
hotline@fele.com, asking for phone consultation. By the time I called the next day, at
least 2 of their guys had discussed my email, but refused to discuss my problem other
than to suggest that because the Subdrive was 5 years old it should be replaced, and to
insist that I talk only with my installer, who wanted near $2,500 to replace it.
To me, they were waving a red flag inscribed “Planned Obsolesence.”
While browsing the internet for alternatives one night, I came across
cyclestopvalves.com, read for 2 hours, understood the philosophy in principle, agreed
with it, and phoned (806-885-4445) the next morning before 8 AM Central time, to be
answered by owner Cary Austin, who spent 45 minutes explaining more and answering
my questions, not only about his valve but also about phase converters, e.g. the
SubDrive I had, and suggested driveswarehouse.com as a source of a replacement
converter. I was very favorably impressed with his knowledge of wells, pumps, motors
and controllers, and with his sincere willingness to help me in any way he could -- a very
customer oriented approach to business, drastically wanting in these days.
I had already realized that I had two choices: to replace the phase converter, or to
replace the motor (or both the motor and pump) with a single phase 220 VAC motor
and starter, at a cost of a few thousand dollars. And I realized that my current motor
will eventually fail -- no machinery lasts perpetually, even my 2-cylinder John Deeres.
I chose to pursue the former option, primarily for economic reasons. I did not know
enough to determine what I needed from Driveswarehouse, but a brief phone call
(888-476-5944) to a very knowledgeable (apparently) young man resulted in the
recommendation of a Hitachi X200-022-NFU1 drive, which converts single phase to
3-phase with variable frequency, for $255 including shipping.
Hardware installation of the Cycle Stop CSV1Z valve, 40-60 psi Square D pressure
switch and Hitachi converter was very straightforward, wire-for-wire, like falling off a
log. What was not so clear was where to connect the pressure switch for on-off control,
and what values to key into the several parameters that control the converter output.
The converter is a very versatile industrial device, with correspondingly complex (to me)
manual. But Sam Rosen at Hitachi tech support (914-524-6720) patiently walked me
through enough (pressure switch between P24 and 1, A001 02, F001 60 Hz, F002 5 sec,
A002 01, A062 20 Hz, A004 60 Hz, H004 02) to get the pump delivering 5 gpm at 20
psi late one Friday afternoon. I didn’t know the motor characteristics -- expecting either
1750 or 3500 RPM and guessing at 2 poles-- so I had keyed in 2 poles and 60 Hz.
But a Monday morning call to Cary uncovered his recommendation that the pump
needed to run at 4700 RPM, so I should use a frequency at 80 Hz and 2-pole motor
(change F001 and A004 to 80). Immediately the pump began cycling between 40-60
psi and behaving as expected from Cycle Stop description, and has remained such for a
month now.
[I have approximately 120 ft of suction lift. So my initial output of 20 psi + the lift
= 165 ft. Now (46.71/35)2 (165) = 294 ft. Subtract the 120 and I have 174 ft or 75 psi left
at the well head.]
So for a little over $500 I again have a fully functional well pump system that I
expect to last several years, instead of spending $2,500 now and expecting to repeat that
expenditure 5 years from now.
The result in my rear view mirror of Franklin Electric is a flag inscribed, “Planned
Obsolesence, Sucker.”
And through my windshield to the future, I will highly recommend Cary Austin and
Cycle Stop Valves to anyone needing assistance with pumping equipment.
/s/ Jerry R Lambert, PE
Clemson South Carolina
1. (80/60)35 = 46.7
