Proper size pump

[tallymandra]

I've a 4br/3bath home built in 2006.  Originally the well was equipped with a 3hp pump but 3+ years ago I had to have it replaced.  Due to cost I went with a 1.5hp, 3 wire.  I do not know the manufacturer but I know it has a built in check valve or so I was told.  I have a loud bang every time the pump shuts off.  After discussing things with Cary over a period of time I got a complete CSV set up with a 12 gal tank and a 40/60 relay.  I had 2 check valves in the system prior to the change out, now just one but the bang is still there and it seems louder but that could be my frustration.  I am quite certain the bang is caused by the CV not closing correctly.  Oh, and the controller is inside the garage and when the pump is running the vibration is quite obvious.
According to the pump man my pump is down 180'.  Water is great, pressure could be better but the CSV is set as close to the 60 psi that I can get.  I am considering changing the pump and going to schedule 120 threaded PVC for the down pipe. 
I'd like to hear what some may think about what pump, pump HP and GPM (I"m thinking 12), about the PVC change out (was told the galv was corroding) and any other help/suggestions one might have. 

Thanks Cary

[Cary Austin]

Sorry about the loud bang.  But once a check valve starts sticking like that it won't fix itself.  May have to replace that check valve to solve the banging problem.  So, yes if you replace that check valve you will have the pump pulled and can replace it if you want.  But it the 1.5HP is doing all you need, the check valve might be all you need to replace.  If you want to replace the pump anyway, my favorite is a Grundfos pump (16S15-14) with a Franklin motor.  My second choice is Grundfos pump with a 3 wire Grundfos motor.  Third choice would be a Goulds in the 18GS15 series with a 3 wire motor.

PVC pipe in Sch 120 or Sch 80 with metal couplings is better than steel pipe at that depth.  If you want more pressure either of these pumps will do it, just need to set the CSV at 70 and run a 60/80 pressure switch setting.

The controller is buzzing so the start relay probably needs to be replaced.

[tallymandra]

Those that you recommended are pumps only, is this correct?  It appears the pump and motor will be in excess of $2000.00.   What is your opinion of the Hallmark industries and Red Lion pumps?

On a side note, can you recommend a link regarding the removal of these 21' sections of galv pipe from the well casing.  I've a good idea but I'm really open to suggestions on this.  The last replacement cost us just over $3000.00.  I'd rather put that into new drop pipe and pump rather than someone else's pocket.  Thanks

[Cary Austin]

Lockewellandpump shows a 18GS15 with motor and control box for $980.00.  Just the first place I looked.  Found a Grundfos without control box for $1,037.00.  Hallmark pumps are very inexpensive, but they don't have many models to choose from.  Closest Hallmark has would be a 2HP model SS.MA0419X-12A-230, but it would work.  Don't know about the quality but maybe worth a try for the price.  The Hallmark will need a good check valve installed as their built in ones are no good.  That check valve will cost 60-80 bucks extra for that pump.

[tallymandra]

Thank you.  When looking for that Goulds you must have signed in with your account because when I looked at that site only the pump alone came close to what you'd quoted and it was $980.00.  The 3 pump/motor combo's were in the >1700.00 price range.  I would prefer a quality pump and motor however the only way I'm going to be able to spend that kind of money is to do the work myself.  Have to figure out the best way to remove that old pump first. 

That new pump was installed about a year before I installed the CSV.  That control box has vibrated or hummed since I mounted it to the wall when I plumbed in the CSV.  The pump guy basically hung it on the wall with a wire but I can say that after the pump install I still had the bang.  I attributed it to having a 2nd CV at the tank.  Removing that 2nd CV didn't eliminate the bang.  I remember thinking that the guy might have put in a used pump he had because I never got any paperwork other than the bill.

[Cary Austin]

21' sticks of galvanized pipe is hard to handle without a good hoist truck.  It can be done, but it is not easy and can be dangerous.  You need a good plate and bell or slips and elevators to hold the pipe.  Then you need to be able to lift 23' or 24' to make up for the tools.  Probably best to just have a pump man come pull out the old pump and pipe and just lay it down.  Then you can go back with sch 80 or sch 120 PVC pipe by hand fairly easily.

On the lockewell site you just need to find the category that has the pump motor and control listed.

[Jim]

I have used a check valve with a rubber stopper ball that disintegrated in one cottage season. I have gone through several brass flap style check valves, one every couple of seasons These close abruptly with a BANG and shudder. These either warp, or pit due to cavitation or something. Even though they look fine any slow loss of pressure is gone when I replace the valve.

I now use a spring loaded brass check valve. The spring slows down the closing to prevent the banging. Have had the same one for years. They are readily available at any of the big box hardware stores.