Recent Posts

1

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: sediment filter question

« Last post by Cary Austin on December 23, 2025, 09:33:11 AM »

One hose is usually not enough flow to get the well developed. Big chunks sometimes pump out easily. The smaller the filter size the sooner it needs cleaning. Sizing the filter to what needs filtering is best.

2

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: sediment filter question

« Last post by ps95 on December 22, 2025, 11:48:45 AM »

Thank you, Mr. Cary, for your knowledge concerning all things plumbing and Cycle Stop Valves, as it's a relief to hear that. The clear sediment filter has a 100 size mesh filter on it. Should I leave it or install something with a larger sized mesh, like a 30 or a 40? While it's not sand, it's more like magnetic reddish colored fragments that are about 1/16" on average with some a touch larger. I did let the hose run for a good while after I had the pump pulled due to wires rubbing on the casing. Definitely could hear some bits through the lines!

3

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: sediment filter question

« Last post by Cary Austin on December 22, 2025, 09:04:05 AM »

Shouldn't be a problem.  A filter before the CSV will have high pressure and must be rated for 125-150 PSI.  A filter after the CSV will only see the 40/60 same as the pressure switch setting.

You might also want to pump out the well.  A big valve or multiple hoses open at the same time to move a high volume of water will bring the sand out with it.  Some wells need to be developed like this for hours or days, but then never make sand again.  Usually the well was just never developed properly to begin with.

4

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / sediment filter question

« Last post by ps95 on December 21, 2025, 04:30:54 PM »

Hello there, I have a cycle stop valve installed in my well house. The pictures below are located in an attached garage. When I replaced my large failed tank with a smaller one, I noticed that it was filling up with debris. I put a sediment filter in between the pressure tank and the vertical Tee coming from out of the concrete. Is this okay to do?
Thanks

5

Frequently Asked Questions / Re: Issues after replace tank and switch

« Last post by ross on December 01, 2025, 11:28:10 AM »

Thanks for your response. The tank is the same size (4.4 gallon). I'll follow your suggestion and shut off the valve and see what the readings are. Yesterday, it didn't drop to 20, just to 40 and then the pump kicked on but again wouldn't shut off after 10 minutes even though no water was demanded. I also did a fairly thorough check for any leaks around the whole system and didn't find anything. There didn't seem to be a problem with the system going off and suggesting a leak before the changeout of equipment so I kind of doubt that's a problem. I'll call if needed--thanks for your help.

6

Frequently Asked Questions / Re: Issues after replace tank and switch

« Last post by Cary Austin on December 01, 2025, 08:44:26 AM »

Hello,

I don't think you needed the pressure switch with the lever. I would get one without personally. Is the tank the same small size?

The test I would do is when you are at 50psi wanting the pump to build to 60psi, close the main shutoff valve so we know everything is off. Have you tried this? It holding 50psi makes me think water is still flowing through the CSV and it is holding 50psi.

The pressure dropping to 20psi after you manually turn pump off makes me think water is going somewhere too or it would stay at 50psi then.

I wouldn't adjust the CSV. The settings do not change if they worked before. If you see leakage from the CSV at all let me know...

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7

Frequently Asked Questions / Issues after replace tank and switch

« Last post by ross on November 30, 2025, 11:59:37 AM »

I have had a sidekick PK1A set up since 2014 and it has worked well for us. When our pump began to cycle on/off recently, I checked the tank and determined that it was water logged (water came out of Schrader valve). I replaced the tank and decided to replace the pressure switch at the same time since it had failed to go on a few times and would be fixed by taping on the box. I also replaced the pressure gauge. The 40/60 pressure switch I installed has a manual switch (the previous one did not). After installing the parts, the system pumps water to house at around 50psi on pressure gauge but does not shut off when I stop running water. It will runs for 4-5 minutes then I turn it off manually. The pressure gauge then drops to around 20 and never starts up unless I manually start it with the pressure switch.  I didn't do anything with the cycle stop and am wondering if that needs adjusting and whether I made a mistake in my choice of pressure switch. Any thoughts?

8

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Correct CSV for my well

« Last post by Cary Austin on October 04, 2025, 07:11:23 AM »

Yep

9

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Correct CSV for my well

« Last post by cruisinforgold on October 02, 2025, 12:41:30 PM »

Cary - you answered some questions on TerryLove forum in diagnosing my well and pump issues.

I'm installing the new pump this weekend and I ordered the CSV1A to install after the pump is up and running.

Just want to confirm I've actually got the correct CSV and my install will be ok.

Well Info:
57 ft Static water to ground level
~400ft well with 60 GPM measured at 315ft
not sure what pump is currently in well
about 7-8ft elevation from ground level to basement pressure tank
Supports all household needs and lawn/garden irrigation in the summer months

Installing 10SQ07-240 on approx 265ft of 1in poly pipe 200psi and a flow inducer sleeve
40/60psi pressure switch with existing Wellxtrol 202

Will this CSV with pump depth and pipe pressure be ok?

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

10

Applications / Re: Request: Assistance w/ Old Pumptec Pressure Tank Based System

« Last post by Cary Austin on August 24, 2025, 07:40:10 AM »

The 115v booster pump will not work with a 230v Cycle Sensor. So, the only option for dry run protection is the lower float switch.