Messages

1

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: too many options--help!

« on: February 13, 2013, 12:48:11 PM »

Great...our product works better with smaller tanks.  I chose the CSV140 because your pressure switch shut off is 50 psi.  Your shut off pressure needs to be higher than our valve set pressure.  The CSV1A is adjustable from 15 to 150 psi so it could also be used for this application.  The CSV1A would be best for the above ground type jet pump.

2

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: too many options--help!

« on: February 13, 2013, 09:47:51 AM »

Any of our 1" valves will work.  That pump is set up at a 20/50 pressure switch going by the info you sent so look at the CSV140 or the CSV1A set at 40 psi.  I know you have storage tanks but what size is your pressure tank? 

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Valve Tech / Re: CSV 160 Valve Failure

« on: September 23, 2012, 04:24:56 PM »

If the valve is spraying,  either the diaphragm has failed or it is being pulled apart via a union or a bind in the pipe.  This valve cannot be pulled on from either side or it will pull apart.

Warranty is 12 months from install or 24 months from date code so there is no warranty left on a 2006 model valve.  We would be happy to inspect it if you would like us to determine if there is a problem with the diaphragm or you might try to gently tighten the stainless screws between the two halves to pull them back together but gently is the key word..do not strip them in the process.

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Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Need Help to Eliminate Water Hammer & Possibly Redesign System

« on: October 17, 2011, 02:23:37 PM »

I am almost sure that the jet pump either has a check valve on the discharge or a foot valve on the intake...otherwise the diaphragm tank on the discharge side of the jet pump would have been leaking/forcing water back through the pump into the storage tank until your pressure dropped low enough for the pump to come back on even when you were not pumping water.  For example,  if your pressure tank is pressured up to 60 psi and you do not have a check valve on your pump when your pump stops pumping,  that pressure tank will empty right back into that storage tank because 60psi is more pressure than the storage tank is holding and the higher pressure will win.  Unless you noticed that happening,  there is a check valve somewhere on the pump side of things.  What HP is the jet pump or a model number if you have it?  That will help me figure out which Cycle Stop Valve you need.

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Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Need Help to Eliminate Water Hammer & Possibly Redesign System

« on: October 17, 2011, 08:02:42 AM »

I am going to start with your first statement and that was the problem started when the check valve was installed.  Multiple check valves tend to work against each other and water hammer is one of the symptoms of that.  My first suggestion is going to be to remove (or drill a hole through)that newest check valve.  Your pump coming out of that storage tank has a check valve or foot valve on it.  You do not need more than one (although that has been a common myth for some time). 

And as you can see,  it is a false sense of security counting on that storage tank to be full when your pump quits you.  It could just as well be empty.  We do however make a product called the Cycle Sensor that would turn off your booster pump when the storage tank ran dry.  At least protecting your booster pump from that early death. 

And now that you understand that stored water is not always available when you need it, you could eliminate a large amount of frustration by losing that storage tank.  I understand your concern about being without water when your pump is out because I also work from a water well at my house but two pump is twice the trouble and if we add a Cycle Stop Valve to your 2HP submersible,  we can make it last as long as possible either way.

The pressure relief valve and the expansion tank are safety features and your plumber did you a service making sure those were installed correctly.  The pressure relief valve will open if your pressure switch fails to turn off your pump and pressure builds higher than it is set to hold thus keeping you from blowing up a pressure tank or line.  Hopefully it is not set higher than the pressure your pump can build?  That is the only catch with that product.

Lets start by getting rid of that additional check and see if that solves the water hammer problem.  If you decide to keep the storage tank..you will need a CS1PH1-2HP Cycle Sensor to keep you safe if the storage tank runs dry. 

If you keep the two pump system,  we can also add a Cycle Stop valve to your jet pump so that it comes on and stays on and softens the starts and stops of your water pump thus taking all of the surge/water hammer out of the rest of the system.

Hope this is a start to getting your water system where you do not have to think about it but every 15 or so years!!

6

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: CSV for me?

« on: September 21, 2011, 07:55:30 AM »

Normally the valve size needed is determined by your pump HP or max gpm demanded.  Even though your pipe size is 1 1/4",  you may not need a valve any larger than 1".  The valve model is determined by the total pressure or head that your pump can provide..sometimes well depth is a good indicator of this as well if you don't have a pump model number.  Pressure tank size will determine the setting of the Cycle Stop Valve.  Check out our 1" or 1 1/4" model valves...CSV1 or CSV1W for 1" models for flow ranges from 1 to 25 gpm and  CSV125 or CSV2W for 1 1/4" models for flow ranges from 3 to 50 gpm.

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Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Getting ready to have a well drilled...

« on: July 20, 2011, 11:33:34 AM »

With a 5 HP, I would use a little larger tank as you are thinking.  Even an 80 gallon tank might be better.  An 80 gallon tank only holds 25 gallons of water, a 45 gallon tank only holds 12.  A 5 HP is OK, but don't use a 25 GPM series, it builds too much pressure for the CSV.  Use a 30 GPM series 5 HP, which will actually give you more GPM if you need it.  Any driller that claims to have had a bad experience with a CSV just doesn't know what he is doing.  Better off using the other guy.  You will also need a CSV1Z with a 3 GPM minimum for a 5 HP.  Cost the same just need to order it that way.  You can replace just the diaphragm or the gut pack in a CSV1Z, but it is rare to need it. 

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Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Getting ready to have a well drilled...

« on: July 19, 2011, 05:00:12 PM »

Hello Golferdude
You shouldn't need a booster pump.  Just put a large enough pump in the well to give you the volume and pressure you need, and the CSV will make it do anything you want it to.  Once you know the well depth and water level, I can help you size a pump and a Cycle Stop Valve.  I would be very suspicious of any driller that is still selling variable speed pumps.  He/she has still got a lot to learn.  I wouldn't want them practicing on my well.

9

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: What is the Best Jet Pump for my need ?

« on: July 13, 2011, 07:47:30 AM »

You can't draw through a garden hose, it will colapse.  It is hard to draw 200' through anything.  It is better to push than draw.  If you can put the pump close to the creek, you can push a long way.  Installed close the the creek a 1/2 HP Jet pump will work.  But I would prefer a 1/2 HP submersible in the creek if possible.

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Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: air/water tank

« on: July 12, 2011, 10:21:51 AM »

"my micronizer will work untill the pressure reaches what the csv is set at"

That is the key right there!

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Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: balance of water

« on: July 10, 2011, 03:54:35 PM »

There is no extra water.  The CSV turns the pump into a 3 GPM pump if that is all you are using. 

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Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: air/water tank

« on: July 08, 2011, 07:46:17 AM »

A micronizer requires a certain flow rate to draw in air.  So you set a Cycle Stop Valve at 45 PSI with a 30/50 pressure switch.  That way the micronizer works until the tank is full to 45 PSI, which is enough to add the air you need.

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Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: air/water tank

« on: July 07, 2011, 09:28:12 AM »

Yes a CSV will work with a standard air over water tank.  But the air charge system may need some tweeking.  If you have an air compressor, no changes.  If you have a rubber bleeder orifice, it needs to be changed.  If you have a brass bleeder orifice, it will work fine but may need to be lowered in the well.  With the CSV the pump will not cycle nearly as much.  So the bleeder may need to be deeper so it adds more air when the pump does cycle. 

14

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: pressure switch on pump

« on: November 10, 2010, 02:26:54 PM »

You will need to either physically move the pressure switch and plug that port or just move the pressure switch sensor downstream of the CSV.

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Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Rusty water application

« on: September 20, 2010, 10:20:21 AM »

A flow inducer is not that important on a 1/2 HP pump.  However, I always like to have one if it will fit.