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Messages - Cary Austin

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1
Valve Tech / Re: Guidance on a CSV125-1 installation
« on: April 18, 2021, 06:47:33 PM »
Nothing wrong with the CSV125 as compared to the CSV1A.  I have received a few back other people said were leaking at the threads.  Testing them on my test pit with worn out galvanized nipples I can't make them leak.  I think it is the fittings, especially if they are plastic and you used the same ones twice.  But I will still send you a new valve as I would like to make sure those threads are new when you go to all that trouble of replacing the other one.  Call the office on Monday and they will get you a new one in the mail.

2
Valve Tech / Re: Guidance on a CSV125-1 installation
« on: April 18, 2021, 07:20:56 AM »
Still think it more likely a problem with the male thread fittings than the CSV.  But I am sorry you have had to go to so much trouble.  Will send you a new CSV on Monday just to eliminate it as a possibility. 

3
Might have to cut the poly pipe back an inch or so.  A little heat with a heat gun or blow drier is good, but too much heat is bad.  Use two regular hose clamps with the buckles offset 180 degrees from each other.

4
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: New Jet Pump Problems
« on: April 17, 2021, 08:04:05 AM »
Seals can be tricky to put in.  Make sure not to touch the sealing surfaces with your fingers.  A leaking seal either is leaking from the sealing surfaces not working properly or the rubber backing is not sealing correctly.  Will always be a problem until you get the seal fixed.

5
You can either use a float valve or a solenoid valve.  Either can be used after a ball valve or pressure sustain valve so it doesn't pump the well dry while filling the cistern,  Just limit the flow with a ball valve to 2-3 GPM filling the cistern, then it should not effect the house water pressure.  A 12V solenoid valve can run off a battery and a little solar charger if you don't have power at that location.  If you do have power there use 24V solenoid valve with a little 24V plug in transformer to run it.


6
Frequently Asked Questions / Re: CSV1A valve tuning
« on: April 17, 2021, 07:55:43 AM »
With the CSV1A set at 70 PSI, you need the pressure switch to turn the pump on/off at about 60/80.  Then you need 55 PSI air in the tank before turning the pump on.  With only 38 PSI air in the tank and going from 50 to 90 before shutting off is over-stretching the bladder in the tank and causing the cracking noise.

Then if when the pumps stops at 80 PSI it should stay at 80 PSI until you use some water.  If you are not using any water, then water is leaking somewhere for the pressure to drop.

7
Frequently Asked Questions / Re: csv 125 stop valve is leaking
« on: April 17, 2021, 07:54:40 AM »
With the CSV1A set at 70 PSI, you need the pressure switch to turn the pump on/off at about 60/80.  Then you need 55 PSI air in the tank before turning the pump on.  With only 38 PSI air in the tank and going from 50 to 90 before shutting off is over-stretching the bladder in the tank and causing the cracking noise.

Then if when the pumps stops at 80 PSI it should stay at 80 PSI until you use some water.  If you are not using any water, then water is leaking somewhere for the pressure to drop.

8
Valve Tech / Re: Guidance on a CSV125-1 installation
« on: April 15, 2021, 08:24:38 AM »
All those valves are made in the same mold. The threads should be perfect and consistent.  But if you can't make it seal I will gladly send you another CSV to try?

9
Valve Tech / Re: Guidance on a CSV125-1 installation
« on: April 15, 2021, 06:54:31 AM »
If the plastic fittings are bottoming out they are your problem.  If they are not bottoming out, you should be able to tighten them more.  I know it says hand tight only and no pipe dope, but you can get them as tight as needed and use teflon paste over the tape if needed.

10
Frequently Asked Questions / Re: csv 125 stop valve is leaking
« on: April 09, 2021, 08:58:37 AM »
Yes the CSV125 will start leaking when sediment cuts an o-ring seal inside.  The CSV1A is a different design and will not leak from sediment or anything.  Just don't want to use the CSV125 is you have sediment or the valve will fail in a short time.  The CSV125 works great in clean water, some have lasted 25+ years.

11
There will be higher pressure on the pipe before the CSV than after.  How much pressure depends on the size of the pump and the depth to water.  That is one of the things we check when sizing a CSV to a pump system.  The CSV itself has a max pressure rating, and we want to make sure we are working with regular size pumps that can't build more pressure than the pipe or CSV can stand.

12
If you have a check valve before the pressure tank, there will be water hammer.  You may not feel or hear it as the pressure tank absorbs most of the blow at that point.  But on pump start, the water hammer pressure before that check valve can be several times more than the pump can even produce.  Without knowing what pump you have, installing a pressure gauge before the CSV is the best way to find out how much pressure your pump can build.  Either you have a pump made for a 1000' well and it makes too much pressure, there is a check valve at the tank causing water hammer, or the glue was just bad from the beginning.  But that is not a normal problem.

13
PVC is better than Pex. The glue welded part is the weakest link in PVC though.  1" PVC pipe is good to 450 PSI but the glue joint is only good to 270 PSI.  Even still, you should not be seeing anywhere close to 270 PSI back pressure.  Do you know what model pump you have and how deep it is to water?  Or, do you have a check valve at the tank or after the elbows somewhere that could be causing water hammer damage?

14
The CSV1A can be preset to 40 PSI if you ask for that in the notes when ordering one.  Or you can turn on a shower and adjust the bolt until it stays at 40 PSI.

15
Yes. Tightening the bolt on the CSV1A will increase the pressure from 15 PSI to as much as 150 PSI.  Just need to be running about 3 GPM when adjusting.

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