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Messages - Cary Austin

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Applications / Re: Advice needed
« on: January 13, 2022, 11:40:39 AM »
It would be easier to return the PK1A and order a PK1AM if you haven't already installed it?  But this isn't the first time this has happened.  We can also send you a manifold and other parts needed to convert to the PK1AM if you like.  Just call Sam or Corye at 805-885-4445.  They will talk you through it.

Applications / Re: Advice needed
« on: January 12, 2022, 02:29:48 PM »
If you put the Pk1A with tank and everything at the well you can tee off in any direction and have as many hydrants as you want in any location.  You can also just put the CSV1A part of the kit at the well, and the tank and switch can be at the house or shop if yo like.  As long as the power comes from the pressure switch to the pump, the tank and switch can be a long way from the pump and CSV.

We make a kit for both cases.  The PK1A is what you need if the tank, switch, and CSV are first in line.  The PK1AM has an extra manifold so the tank and switch can be mounted by themselves at the house or barn by the electric line.

There is nothing, especially a VFD, that can make a 3HP pump produce more than 3HP worth of water.  There is at least 5% inherent losses in a VFD, which increases slip in the motor, which decreases the max amount a pump can produce.  In most cases, the VFD will produce less water from the same pump as a CSV.  It just can't get to max speed because of the increased slip. Also, because of these inherent losses the minimum flow needed to cool a pump controlled by a VFD is much higher than when using a CSV.  So the pump would actually cycle more for house uses less than about 5 GPM with a VFD, as that is how much it takes to keep the motor cool.

One advantage of the CSV is that you can bypass it.  For zones that are large enough to keep the pump from cycling, just tee off before the CSV.  However, on smaller zones like number 3 and 4 the pump will cycle on/off, as those zones are not using the max flow the pump can produce.  And even though the CSV is not preventing the pump from cycling when using less than 3 GPM, it is still cycling much slower with the CSV filling the tank at 3 GPM than without a CSV where the pump would fill the tank at 40 GPM.

If you can make all your zones large enough to keep the pump from cycling off, then you can tee off to all the irrigation after the CSV.  Then the pressure to the  heads is only limited by the amount the pump can produce while working with no losses from any type of control.  If you drill out your "water saver" washers on the showerheads from 2.5 to 3 GPM, the showers will see could strong constant pressure from the CSV as well.  I find with the so called "water saver" washer drilled out people can get the soap washed off quicker and actually do not use any more water during showers.  They just take quicker showers.

In your case the CSV is not so much for delivering constant pressure to all the zones, but more to keep the pump from cycling itself to death on the smaller zones, as all the zones are not matched to the pump.

I was  guessing 7 PSI on the large zone, but gauges are good at lying to you.  Lol.  All that matters is if the sprinklers are shooting far enough?

At steady state the gauge before and after the CSV should be the same.  So, yes one or both of those gauges is off, but that is normal.  Swap those two gauges and you will get a much better reading.  Probably much closer to the 7 PSI loss you should have with a flow rate of about 45 GPM.  The gauge at the house is probably off as well, but you will gain 1 PSI for every 2.31' in elevation drop from the well to the tank.  6 PSI difference would mean your well is 13' higher than the tank at the house.

Good info!  I would like to know the pressure before and after the CSV125 when running zone 7? 

Yes you can use a wrench if needed.  But I would probably back it off and add some new teflon before tightening again.

Yes on everything except you can get the CSV125  as tight as needed.

Frequently Asked Questions / Re: Help me understand
« on: December 27, 2021, 08:08:38 AM »
Most pump manufacturers have blacklisted the CSV as a disruptive product, as it is so perfect it makes pumps last longer and uses smaller pressure tanks.  The CSV has been reduced down to the simplest and most perfect pump control available.  There is no flow rate that you could use that would hurt the pump.  If you are using less than the minimum flow designed in the CSV the pump will cycle slowly.  If you are using more than the minimum flow designed in the CSV the pump can run continuously 24/7/365 without hurting a thing.  The minimum flow set in the CSV is designed to keep the pump cool and happy even if it ran this way all the time.  The CSV can never completely close.  It is specially designed for this application and will always "creep" a certain amount through to keep the pump cool.  There is no time limit on how long you can run at minimum flow.  I have several patents at USPTO.GOV is you want to get technical.

54 years of experience has gone into making the CSV is so perfect for pump control that it makes pumps last several times longer than normal, which is why it is hated by pump manufacturers and many pump installers.

Frequently Asked Questions / Re: Help me understand
« on: December 26, 2021, 06:58:23 AM »
It looks like the CSV trades off number of cycles for longer run time, but under low flow a lot of that time is at fairly high head pressures?

Wouldn't having a decent size tank and putting the pressure switch ahead of the CSV Pressure regulator) be a better overall solution for constant pressure (although a bit more expensive)?

Longer run times at low flow and high back pressure cause the pump to draw lower amps and run cooler which is good for the pump.  Short runs at high flow, low back pressure, and max amps are hard on the pump.

A pressure regulator after the tank does nothing for the short run times, hard starts and stops, water hammer, and other problems caused by cycling.  Plus you still need an expensive and large pressure tank.  You would also need a 50/70 pressure switch to maintain 50 on the discharge.

A Cycle Stop Valve on the inlet side of the tank only requires a 40/60 switch to give 50 PSI constant to the house.  The CSV also allows a small tank and solves all the problems associated with cycling the pump on/off.   

A pressure regulator on the discharge of the tank is exactly what the pump companies want you to do as it doesn't affect the 7 year average planned obsolescence life of the pump.  A Cycle Stop Valve on the inlet side of the pump will make the pump system last 30-40 years instead, which is exactly why the pump manufacturers call it a disruptive product and will say anything to keep you from trying a CSV. 


Just  screw a short galvanized or brass nipple into the 1 1/4" galv tee.  Use water pipe plyers or channel locks to tighten it into the metal tee, staying in the middle and trying not to bugger the threads on each end.  Then you can teflon tape the metal nipple and screw the CSV125 as tight as needed.  The metal nipple will stay tight in the metal tee.  So, if you need to replace the CSV125 just unscrew the union on the discharge, and unscrew the CSV125 from the metal nipple.  You won't need a backup wrench.

Irrigation / Re: Pump setup
« on: December 23, 2021, 09:13:10 AM »
Be glad to help.  Call if you have questions.

Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: Open water source (Pond) for home use
« on: December 23, 2021, 08:54:06 AM »
I am sorry you got stuck with one of those VFD Tar Babies.  Making the pump scream and cycling on/off are just the first problems you will have with a variable speed type pump.  I am sure that is a three phase motor, so you have no choice but to continues to use the VFD controller, as that is the only way a three phase motor will work from your standard single phase house power.  They is how they lock you into replacing the expensive VFD controller several times, which is why I call it a Tar Baby.

Get a good jet pump and control it with a PK1A kit and there will be no screaming or cycling and you will have strong constant pressure to the taps.  This type system should last 30-40 years compared to 3-5 years for the VFD type pump.  This is why you won't find any pump company promoting Cycle Stop Valves.  The CSV is good for you but not if you make your living selling pumps.

Irrigation / Re: Pump setup
« on: December 23, 2021, 08:43:20 AM »
A low pressure cut off switch will protect the pump if you run out of water for some reason.  However, they can be a nuisance having to be manually reset every time the power goes off or you open one too many faucets.

The J10S from that depth should give you up to 15 GPM at 50 PSI.

Irrigation / Re: Choosing CSV and System Configuration
« on: December 22, 2021, 08:15:11 AM »
Sorry for the delay.  I just saw this.  Call if you need help. 806 885 4445

Irrigation / Re: Pump setup
« on: December 22, 2021, 08:14:10 AM »
A J10S pump works very well with a PK1A kit using a 4.5 gallon size pressure tank.  The CSV1A in the PK1A will give you strong constant pressure and keep the pump from cycling as long as you are using more than 1 GPM.

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