I'd like to optimize my well water system...help needed.

[bjm999]

I suppose it could be.  Not sure how to tell.  When I look at it the leak point isn't obvious.  I called the office and they are sending another valve.  I'll get a replacement nipple as well and change both.  What is the best way to tighten a close nipple without damaging the threads??? 

Due to it being a close nipple, the entire length is threaded so there's not an area to put a wrench without potentially damaging the threads.  The distance between the tee and the CSV is shorter than typical wrenches are wide.  Hope that makes sense.  Any ideas?

[Cary Austin]

I know right?  I try to avoid close nipples for that reason.  Using Channel locks or water pipe plyers I usually install the steel nipple into the steel tee first.  Staying as close the the tee as possible with the water pipe plyers it usually doesn't hurt much of the threads.  Then the plastic CSV can usually be screwed on by hand, tight enough not to leak.  But another round with the plyers won't hurt.

[bjm999]

Good info!  BTW, do you think the slow leak could be from too much sediment in the well water?  Seems like I remember you once saying this model was great as long as I didn't have much sediment.  I was going to try this valve instead of the CSV2W I had and hope I got a long life from the CSV12560-3.  So could the leak be the valve starting to fail due to higher sediment?  I dont think I have high sediment but it's kinda hard to quantify.

[Cary Austin]

If sediment had damaged the 0-ring, the valve would be leaking from under the red coupling in the middle.  I really think the galv nipple is the problem.

[bjm999]

To help avoid any issues ruining the threads by tightening the close nipple, I'm thinking about using a non close nipple and reworking the PVC pipe with new PVC parts to the union that is right below the white tee you can see in the pics.  The union is covered by insulation in the pic.  What material nipple do you recommend since it's potable water?  Not sure if galv carbon steel is the best choice now that I see all the rust from the leak.  Thanks!

[Cary Austin]

Probably need to replace the CSV125 while you are at it.  It looks like it might have been tightened too much trying to get the close nipple tight.  Lot of people live to 90-100 drinking from galvanized pipe.  But I prefer PVC when possible.  Two Sch 40 male adapters with a short piece of pipe glued in between would work nicely.

[bjm999]

Unfortunately I don't have enough room for 2 more adapters.  I can't seem to find a galv hex nipple.  I can find stainless and PVC (not sure what the G means in G1-1/4) hex nipples...

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Threaded-Fitting-Nipple/dp/B01M6X7NHE

https://www.ebay.com/itm/304291234090?hash=item46d92bc12a:g:-SgAAOSwO9hjugbA&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4MPwwiiY5KAW6iwCpfPt7pBWNHAq%2BzgOo%2FCzXpkDSJ26i%2FCpls7wtja55KY%2FkFCrEMWuC9tHazP8qOY2%2BZleKVya5DBb972%2FGk9NpUSg3C9ox%2FjHw3khAd8a%2BVCBCwrDf685%2FCiEtAqINENvy%2Fy%2BhzP4fw7DyJjFb6xZ8UP9ZuE%2BulF4t2zyPqOApnXVAIG0qAPALa9SJxBp4R6sSEaIziO36v7ip%2FpGmc8ELPFJKH8hWUuznpRomr9AGxnaawkUeihNuyMSkiaDVBBSWzniCA6WJZniT16554MiU%2FzFnM9U%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4j109bJYQ

or just go with a non close galv nipple.

[Cary Austin]

If you change the length of that top part any, you will also need to change the length of the bottom part.  So, you can make anything you want to work.  Might be able to find a Sch 80 threaded nipple, but it is not going to be the same length as the close nipple.